Opinions on handloading new brass-

[Tom Kat]

What do you do to brand new brass? Full length size? Nothing? I have a box of brand new Winchester brass for my Tikka rifle. Its tempting to measure the brass length and load some up just for testing purposes...

[Bill K]

I usually just neck size, so I know the neck is even, check the length and trim, if necessary, then just load it and shoot.

[Tom Kat]

I usually just neck size, so I know the neck is even, check the length and trim, if necessary, then just load it and shoot.

Thats kind of what I am leaning towards. This happens to be Winchester brass, not the best IMO but new is new....

[skipper]

I think you just opened Pandora'a box. Bound to be some discussion on this thread. Just to add a little discussion, you might want to check the primer holes for burrs. Uniform the pockets??

[Jim White]

I think you just opened Pandora'a box. Bound to be some discussion on this thread. Just to add a little discussion, you might want to check the primer holes for burrs. Uniform the pockets??

I believe you're right WRT Pandora's Box. I do suppose it depends on the brass itself. Unless it's high end stuff, I'd definitely F/L size it, uniform the primer pockets, deburr the flash hole, chamfer the inside & outside of the neck, measure the neck uniformity and turn cases as necessary.

Is it a nuisance? Well, it all depends but it beats pulling weeds in the yard and besides, you only have to do this once.

[Bill K]

Agree on the Pandora's box.. There will be hundreds of different suggestions on what too do. Each of us do what we think is needed at or with a given new case.

[Tom Kat]

I wish they were anything but Winchester. I have had great luck with Norma and Lapua in the past, just load and go....

[Tom Kat]

Neck tension is a subject that has me interested.

[skipper]

If you're interested in neck tension you might like a K&M arbor press with a strain gauge. It can tell you how much force you are applying while seating bullets. Very helpful, in my opinion.

[Tom Kat]

If you're interested in neck tension you might like a K&M arbor press with a strain gauge. It can tell you how much force you are applying while seating bullets. Very helpful, in my opinion.

I have never heard of that but I can see where it could keep things consistent.

[Rick in Oregon]

I'ts always amused me as to why anyone would FL size virgin brass. For example, take one out of the box or bag and chamber it in your rifle before doing anything to it. It will freely drop right into the chamber.....so why would you want to FL size it if it already fits? Why over work new brass by sticking it into a full length sizing die? It's already been done at the factory prior to shipping.

I only neck size virgin brass, but prior to doing that, I uniform the primer pocket. Once neck sized, I chamfer/deburr the neck and check for length. I seldom ever trim new brass, as it will change slightly after going through any die. Trimming is saved for at least after one firing. We won't discuss neck turning, as that's an entirely different subject and does not apply to factory chambers unless the user just wants to reduce "high or low" spots in the case neck thickness.

This issue has been address ad nauseum here and elsewhere. After handloading for over 50 years, it's become apparent that many people don't understand the primary differences between FL and neck sizing. Then add in the benefits of using the Body Die that only corrects the shoulder and body dimensions. In my die inventory for each rifle is FL, Body and Neck dies, usually bushing dies for my target/varmint rifles with custom barrels and chambers. A FL die is the least used die here, and I'm still using some brass from the late 70's in my rifles.

JMO JME

[Jim White]

The reason I F/L [non Lapua or Norma] brass is I've seen LOTS where it was just as wobbly as some of those economic recovery plans in Olympia & Salem. It doesn't take much effort and it straightens them right out. Sure, I could shoot it and it'd do the same but with components they way they are now, I find it's pretty quick to do although not as much fun.

Norma & Lapua, I neck size them and maybe re chamfer the inside of the neck, Otherwise, they're pretty much load & go. I haven't tried Nosler brass.

One thing I didn't see or overlooked was the use in semi-auto rifles. They get a F/L size every time.

[Tom Kat]

]I have been using Nosler, Hornady, and Lapua brass. It spoiled me. This winchester brass leaves a lot to be desired so far. The necks were beat up so I ran all of the through the expander ball on my RCBS die. After that I started measuring the cases and most were over Sami length so I will end up trimming all of them as well.

[jsh]

I FL size all my virgin brass, no matter who made it.
Why? Because a number of years ago I traveled to a match a fair distance and had ammo that would not chamber due to a case size issue, because I had not FL sized it. Will NEVER happen again.

I use a FL bushing die on a lot of mine any more. I bump my shoulders on 90% of my loads anymore. It doesn’t kill brass. I had a lot of issues that I caused myself. Watch Eric Cortinas YouTube on the subject.

In years past I did a full match prep on brass short of neck turning. Time spent and any accuracy return was a wash, for an off the rack rifle.
If I do a full prep anymore it is a neck turn chamber as well.


What ever preps you decide need to be done is right. Never go to the line or the bench with doubts or questions in your head. Some of the things that we do add nothing more than confidence to our selves.

[Tom Kat]

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