20 cal. Flash Hole Debur Tool UPDATE

[wirelessguy2005]

I was informed today that the .20 caliber flash hole debur tool will be delivered to me tomorrow. I will be posting up pictures tomorrow evening and it will be available for sale immediately. This tool will look very similiar to the .17 cal tool. It will work for the .204 ruger, 20 tactical, 20 practical, etc... Please message me if you would like one. The introductory price will be $25 to your door(shipping is included in the price as long as you live in the USA. For anyone outside the USA please message me for shipping costs). We added a hex end to the tool so that it can be chucked up in a drill or power screwdriver easier, this did cause the price to go up a bit. For anyone that messaged me and asked to buy one of the tools during the last few weeks you will get it for the original price. Please feel free to post feedback and ask questions pertaining to the tool. As always i value everyone's feedback and appreciate the support.

[wirelessguy2005]

added a picture.

[larr]

nice looking tool! can it be threaded for the rcbs prep center?

[wirelessguy2005]

Thanks for the compliment on the tool. At some point down the road we may look into producing one that would thread onto the rcbs prep center. Please message me if you would like to purchase one of the 20 cal flash hole debur tools. Thanks

nice looking tool! can it be threaded for the rcbs prep center?

[BabaOriley]

Is this price for the carbide version or not?

[wirelessguy2005]

this is a standard cutter.

Is this price for the carbide version or not?

[bow shot]

'wish I had waited, LOL! Congrats wireless, that is a beautiful looking tool.

[Rick in Oregon]

Now if that puppy had been designed to register off the bottom of the case instead of case length, I'd go for one in every caliber I load for. I just can't see any reason to bring a new tool to market that is dependent on case length when there's a much better system......just doesn't make any sense.

Nice machine work though.

[wirelessguy2005]

Rick,

I appreciate the feedback. We looked at the idea of indexing of the bottom of the case. However we did some research and there is no way to gurantee or check the thickness of the case bottom and that affects the depth of the cut when the tool is designed that way. However with our tool you can gurantee a uniform flash hole by simply trimming the cases to a uniform length if you so desire. The majority of the benefit in deburing the flash hole is simply removing the material left over after the flash hole is punched. A slight variation in the depth of the cutter is really splitting hairs unless you are shooting benchrest. Just for reference Sinclairs 17 and 20 cal flash hole debur tool is designed to work the same as this tool. That being said i am pretty confident that sinclairs wouldn't market a tool that didn't work. If you would like to test the tools out i am more than happy to make you a money back gurantee. You purchase one and if you aren't happy with it you can return it to me for a full refund. Let me know if you would be interested.

Thanks,
Brad

Now if that puppy had been designed to register off the bottom of the case instead of case length, I'd go for one in every caliber I load for. I just can't see any reason to bring a new tool to market that is dependent on case length when there's a much better system......just doesn't make any sense.

Nice machine work though.

[Rick in Oregon]

No thanks, I'll stick to what I know works. I use power to deburr flash holes, and your tool won't work with power. Besides, I always deburr flash holes on new brass right after neck sizing, never before trimming, as I want my necks as virginal and pristine as possible, NOT grinding a cutter stop against them on a finished neck before they've even been fired once in the rifle they're intended for.

Any minute differences in case web thickness is absolutely meaningless to the flash hole bevel and deburr operation, as would be case length. My cutter stops at the bottom of the case, I cease delivering power, and the operation stops. No damage whatever to the bottom of the case. I just don't want any tool that registers on the case mouth.

The Sinclair tool was redesigned to register off the case web bottom. They offer TWO tools for flash hole work, one that registers off the case mouth, the other from the case web; my preference.

Nice tool, you'll probably do okay with them. They're just not for me.

[wirelessguy2005]

Rick,
I think you may be incorrect on a couple things. This tool is made to be used under "power" as well as by hand. It will chuck up in a drill, power screwdriver, drill press, or pretty much anything that accepts a hex. Secondly you speak of "minute difference in case web thickness". I am curious how you come to that conclusion? Do you randomly cut every 5th case in a perfect half length wise and check them for thickness? If not i would be curious to see how you measure it. As always i appreciate the feedback, i just have a hard time with someone dogging something when its obvious there is no easy or cost effective way to measure it.
Brad

No thanks, I'll stick to what I know works. I use power to deburr flash holes, and your tool won't work with power. Besides, I always deburr flash holes on new brass right after neck sizing, never before trimming, as I want my necks as virginal and pristine as possible, NOT grinding a cutter stop against them on a finished neck before they've even been fired once in the rifle they're intended for.

Any minute differences in case web thickness is absolutely meaningless to the flash hole bevel and deburr operation, as would be case length. My cutter stops at the bottom of the case, I cease delivering power, and the operation stops. No damage whatever to the bottom of the case. I just don't want any tool that registers on the case mouth.

The Sinclair tool was redesigned to register off the case web bottom. They offer TWO tools for flash hole work, one that registers off the case mouth, the other from the case web; my preference.

Nice tool, you'll probably do okay with them. They're just not for me.

[Rick in Oregon]

I "measure" it by 10X loupe under indirect flourescent light viewing through the case neck into the bottom of the case. I can easily see the amount of cut/bevel once a complete cut has been made, and if there's any variation in web thickness, it would be apparant. (I've onlyl noticed a difference to any 'measureable' degree with military 5.56 brass)

It's a plus that your tool is indeed suited to power use, but it's still not for me. My case necks are the very last thing that are trimmed/squared/beveled and chamfered, and the only and last thing my bullet will touch prior to entering the rifling; I want it perfect. Again, I just do not want to base a cutting/registering operation off my completely finished, fully bullet-ready case neck.

I do take a bit of offense at being accused of "dogging" this issue. Just because you're convinced you're correct, does not mean everyone else is incorrect.

It's a personal thing at this point based on my lifetime experience. Leave it.

[wirelessguy2005]

Rick,

It looks like we will have to agree to disagree. The explanation that you wrote below on how to measure the thickness of the bottom a case is not realistic and you know it. I don't expect to change your mind on the way that you reload. However i do hope that there would be some common courtesy shown to people such as myself that start a topic on this forum. I think its disrespectful to go on a topic that someone else started and talk negatively about a product or whatever they may want to discuss. There's nothing wrong with saying that you would prefer it another way or that you have a better idea. However its counterproductive to trash someone's idea or interest just because of "your lifetime of experience". I always try to keep an open mind and take everyone's feedback regardless of if i agree with it or not. I just don't see the point in talking down on somebody's else's ideas. Just my 2 cents.

I "measure" it by 10X loupe under indirect flourescent light viewing through the case neck into the bottom of the case. I can easily see the amount of cut/bevel once a complete cut has been made, and if there's any variation in web thickness, it would be apparant. (I've onlyl noticed a difference to any 'measureable' degree with military 5.56 brass)

It's a plus that your tool is indeed suited to power use, but it's still not for me. My case necks are the very last thing that are trimmed/squared/beveled and chamfered, and the only and last thing my bullet will touch prior to entering the rifling; I want it perfect. Again, I just do not want to base a cutting/registering operation off my completely finished, fully bullet-ready case neck.

I do take a bit of offense at being accused of "dogging" this issue. Just because you're convinced you're correct, does not mean everyone else is incorrect.

It's a personal thing at this point based on my lifetime experience. Leave it.

[Rick in Oregon]

No trash talk implied or intended. I said you'd probably do well with your tool.

Good luck with the venture.

[wirelessguy2005]

Thank You Rick. I am glad you clarified. I didn't intend any trash talk either. I do appreciate your feedback and will take it into consideration.

Thanks,
Brad

No trash talk implied or intended. I said you'd probably do well with your tool.

Good luck with the venture.