Seeing the bubble on Rick’s scope has got me to re-thinking about how critical scope mounting can be, especially getting it aligned straight. So, what types of tools and gadgets are out there?
I just recently acquired one of the Wheeler Engineering Scope mounting kits with the two levels. It works OK in most rifles, however in my two Savage 17 HMR’s, the magnet/level doesn’t fit across the receiver rails. It’s so-so in my CZ-527.
For me, after putting the rifle in my rest (use the installed bubble level) I look for a flat spot either on the receiver or the scope mounts. Using two 6†Starrett machinist rulers I put one on top of the elevation drum and the other on the flat spot. I then rotate the scope until they are aligned (I verify (or try as best I can) with the horizontal reticles) and tighten down the ring screws part way. I then pick up and shoulder the rifle and see how it looks. I continue tightening down making sure the scope isn’t skewed during the process.
Basically I use 2 rulers and a pair of calibrated eyeballs. What do you folks use?
Thx,
Mounting a Scope
- Silverfox
- Senior Member
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- .204 Ruger Guns: Savage 12VLP purchased in June 2004 + 2 other custom .204s
- Location: NW North Dakota
Re: Mounting a Scope
I don't own the Wheeler Engineering Scope Mounting Kit, but do use a couple of line levels and two thin, but stiff pieces of plastic and/or a couple rods from the sky screen from my Chrony Beta Master chronograph. Here's a couple of photos of someone else's setup, but it is similar to mine. I DO NOT use the top of the elevation nob cap for leveling my scopes like you see in the bottom photo. I use the flat spot under the bottom of the windage and elevation area of the scope and use a rubber band to hold my stiff piece of plastic to that and set one of the line levels on there.
The other level is placed on the top of the other piece of plastic that is held onto on of one of my scope mount bases with another rubber band similar to what you see in the bottom photo above here. I place the second level on that. I use my Tipton rifle vise to keep the level that is sitting on the scope base perfectly level and then make adjustment on the scope so the level on that is right with the world and begin to tighten the ring screws, carefully tightening little-by-little and constantly making sure all things are level. This has worked out pretty good for me over the years.
I do have scope levels or anti-cant levels on two of my scopes. I purchased these from Sinclair International. I am a right handed shooter and these levels are off-set they stick out a bit to the left of the center of the scope and I see them pretty easily with my left eye while my right eye is in shooting position.
The other level is placed on the top of the other piece of plastic that is held onto on of one of my scope mount bases with another rubber band similar to what you see in the bottom photo above here. I place the second level on that. I use my Tipton rifle vise to keep the level that is sitting on the scope base perfectly level and then make adjustment on the scope so the level on that is right with the world and begin to tighten the ring screws, carefully tightening little-by-little and constantly making sure all things are level. This has worked out pretty good for me over the years.
I do have scope levels or anti-cant levels on two of my scopes. I purchased these from Sinclair International. I am a right handed shooter and these levels are off-set they stick out a bit to the left of the center of the scope and I see them pretty easily with my left eye while my right eye is in shooting position.
Catch ya L8R--Silverfox
- Captqc
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Re: Mounting a Scope
I use the wheeler two bubble gizmo and you are correct they don't work in very situation. Sometimes I just set a bubble level on the top of the scope with the rifle held in the jig and eyeball the darn thing. Gary
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Re: Mounting a Scope
Silverfox,
Thank you, that was very informative. To be honest, most of my competitive shooting was with open Peep style military sights. Occasionally, I have had to shoot a M14 with what appears to be a canted front sight because the barrel wasn't quite indexed properly. Its's quite the challenge.
When I shot in those belly matches I was using someone else's hardware so I never gave it a heck of a lot of thought, until I saw that bubble on Rick's scope and it got me to thinking. When I load test I usually adjust the scope to strike just off of dead center. This helps me to keep a consistent POA. I've discovered that the draw back is, the shooter has to be very (keenly) aware of scope cant and the effect it has on your grouping.
After seeing Rick's scope bubble I did a Google search and I came upon a site that was quite informative of the effects of an offset scope. Even a small 6 degree cant has quite an effect especially as the distance grows.
Although mine seem straight, I'm going to recheck them.
Thanks for info,
Jim
Thank you, that was very informative. To be honest, most of my competitive shooting was with open Peep style military sights. Occasionally, I have had to shoot a M14 with what appears to be a canted front sight because the barrel wasn't quite indexed properly. Its's quite the challenge.
When I shot in those belly matches I was using someone else's hardware so I never gave it a heck of a lot of thought, until I saw that bubble on Rick's scope and it got me to thinking. When I load test I usually adjust the scope to strike just off of dead center. This helps me to keep a consistent POA. I've discovered that the draw back is, the shooter has to be very (keenly) aware of scope cant and the effect it has on your grouping.
After seeing Rick's scope bubble I did a Google search and I came upon a site that was quite informative of the effects of an offset scope. Even a small 6 degree cant has quite an effect especially as the distance grows.
Although mine seem straight, I'm going to recheck them.
Thanks for info,
Jim