Ceramic Bore liner?

[Bergcrane2]

Anyone ever use this?
http://www.otisgun.com/cgistore/store.c ... =1525.6660
Is it snake oil?

[Rustyaxecamp]

I remember reading about something similar over on campfire...

[OldTurtle]

I've never heard of it before now... If I had a reasonably 'shot out' barrel, or one that had some interior damage like rust pitting, I might be tempted to try it...

At $84 per kit, I would have to be on my 'last resort' stage though..

I have a couple of Otis cleaning kits (AR Military and .17M2) that I take out in the field/range with me and they seem to work reasonably well, but not as thoroughly as I clean on my bench and I know he's proud ($$) of his cleaning kits....

I'd be more tempted to let someone else be the 'test dummy' for something that leaves a 'do-it-yourself' coating in one of my barrels...

[Wiiings12]

I must say this is either really really cool, or an extremely bad idea.. If it works (which I would expect it to at 80 bucks a pop) I would totally go for it, if not.. I'll pass on trying to get that out of my rifling..

Just like my dad always says "If it's too good to be true.. guess what? IT IS."

I just googled Lifeliner and found it for 60 dollars at a few different places.

..just a quick thought on that though.. From what I know when that bullet goes down the tube, it is air tight, if it's air tight how on earth wouldn't it be "Lifeliner-Tight"? That would mean all that goo goes flying downrange at whatever, and you wouldn't really ever know. And lets just say my rifling is severely worn down.. blah blah blah.. That bullet is still going to be squeezing on through there as tight as can be, again taking all the goo with it, which would make it impossible for that stuff to somehow re-construct the rifling inside my barrel. Which would mean their "old gun to new gun" claims are completely false. for that to actually work there would need to be a chip or gap of some kind in the rifling. That is all based upon my air tight bullet theory, and I actually have no clue if the bullet does fly through there that tight. That's my 2 cents!

phew!

Perhaps we should all throw down a few dollars and have someone try it!

[Bergcrane2]

Wiiings- I don't think a bullet is actually making a air tight seal as it goes down the bore. Now MAYBE, a bullet in a sabot is air tight. But I even doubt that. The air space in the groove of the rifling will allow air through. If I were to use this product, it wouldn't so much to resurrect an old weapon, but to make a newer one last longer.

[jo191145]

I'd be more tempted to let someone else be the 'test dummy' for something that leaves a 'do-it-yourself' coating in one of my barrels...

Test Dummy here at your service folks.
Actually I did not try this specific ceramic coating I tried the original that was discussed on 24hr Campfire.
My 6.5X284 factory Savage tube had some issues. Many of them did. Seeing as that barrel was destined to get replaced by a custom I thought I'd give it a try.

Save your money.

IMO the original that I used is a better product and I still would not recommend it. Why is it better? I'm no chemist but the manufacturer at least understood the only way to properly coat a barrel with a foreign substance was if it was cleaned to bare steel. A one time application that was fireformed and hardened by the heat of firing. It must be under the first bullet.

I read this products instructions months ago. Memory fades but......
You simply dip the bullet in the goo and shoot. Dip and shoot dip and shoot. Three different bottles of goo I think and several rounds of each.
If that method accomplishes anything it will be to simply trapping carbon/copper underneath the coating.
After the first shot your just wasting your time and money.

The original had instructions that a bronze brush could no longer be used on the barrel. Thats a total bummer right there. I'm willing to bet this new product has the same instructions.

A can of Lock Ease will accomplish the same thing for a lot less.