Hand Priming Tool

[Bad Dad]

got it thanks the light bulb is on

[scootertrash]

I also use the RCBS without problem. Since all my high volume loading is for .20 calibers, I don't even change out the #10 shellholder.

I may be mistaken, but when I looked at Sinclair's tool, I thought it was a "one at a time" tool. If that's the case, it's not for me. Way to much ammo to reload after a pdog hunt, and that's a couple times a month.

Mike

[Rick in Oregon]

Scooter's right, the Sinclair tool is indeed one at a time. I shoot high volume too, and once used to using it, the priming goes much faster than you'd imagine.

I load for about 10 different varmint calibers in addition to my big game calibers, and use the Simclair tool for all of them now. I'll admit though, that typically I do cases 100 in a lot, and do all cases in one step, then move on to the next step.

This tool is certainly not for everyone, but if you appreciate precision equipment and tight tolerances to produce the best possible, most accurate ammunition, then it's for you. If "okay" is good enough, the Lee or RCBS would be completely adequate. No flame on the other tools, a Honda or a BMW will both get you to work....which one would you rather drive? (Or afford?) Precisely why we have Coopers and Savages too.....Something for everyone.

[scootertrash]

This tool is certainly not for everyone, but if you appreciate precision equipment and tight tolerances to produce the best possible, most accurate ammunition, then it's for you. If "okay" is good enough, the Lee or RCBS would be completely adequate. No flame on the other tools, a Honda or a BMW will both get you to work....which one would you rather drive? (Or afford?) Precisely why we have Coopers and Savages too.....Something for everyone.

Rick,

I agree with the appreciation of precision equipment. It's nice to have, why I also just got a Harrell Premium thrower. I am a CAD/CAM operator and love these tools, same as a Redding Competition seating die.

The Harrell actually isn't any more accurate than a "cheaper" thrower, but looks and is built much better. Kinda like my Coopers and Savages, the Savage's don't lack much at all in the accuracy department beside the Cooper's.

And BTW, make mine a Harley please.

Mike

[WHISTLEPIG]

I believe it also makes a difference how much time you have. Hand loading is way more time consuming than reloading. I have the time and I enjoy doing it. If I was still doing Little League baseball, helping with home work, working myself 12 or 14 hours a day, I would not have the time to devote to what I care to do for myself. I’ve done all that and now it’s my turn. (Until someone says, “Are you ever going to come out of that gun room?")

[janneuf]

Anyone else have alignment problems with the RCBS Hand Primer? I can get by, but it seems like it's hard to align. I end up kind of "jiggling" the handle and it finally goes but it's much more of a struggle that it is with my WSM.

Is the Lee a better choice for the .204?

[skipper]

Sometimes I have trouble with the priming rod not going down after seating the primer. The fix is to take the primer tray off and move the two piece plastic guide back and forth until the rod goes up and down without binding. It just seems to be a second nature thing when I'm setting it up, now. I don't have plans to replace it until something major goes wrong. Most of the time it happens with the black plastic guide and rod for large primers. It seldom happens with the white guide and rod for small primers.

[WT]

While on the subject, does using a hand priming tool make that much difference in accuracy?

But I’ve been using the priming arm on the press because it’s a little quicker, and this is the first time I’ve reloaded for anything smaller that a deer so the priming arms has always been fine.

Bad Dad,
I used to use the priming arm on my Rock Chucker for priming too, but I have to agree with everything whistlepig said "The idea behind hand priming is consistantly setting the primer to the same depth and setting the primer anvil correctly under a slight pressure. A crushed anvil will break the priming compound causing inconsistant ignition. A primer not fully seated will be seated the rest of the way by the firing pin moving forward prior to ignition. The increased feel of a hand primer is what allows consistant seating and consistant ignition."

Also, it's amazing how much faster it is to prime with my RCBS hand priming tool. I can knock out 100 rounds in no time.

[ennacac]

FWIW I use the RCBS priming tool also and it usually works without a hitch, but sometimes the primers get stuck and I have to fiddle with it to get it back to auto loading the primers from the plate.

Tom

[The N.U.B.]

I also use the RCBS. It has the universal shell holder and works great for .204 through .45ACP. I also just used it for .38-55 (a little thicker rim) with no problems.

I like it cause I can clean after sizing, clean flash hole, inspect, and prime while watching TV upstairs with my wife. This cuts down on the Reloading Widow syndrome. A tray of 50 rounds goes very quickly. I agree with may of the earlier posts that the APS isn't necessary and even is a bit restrictive due to the need to load the strips if one doesn't pony up for the preloaded ones.

Scott

[Rick in Oregon]

Yep, a hand-held unit is the only way to go, and allows a very good "feel" when the primer bottoms out in the pocket, and avoids crushing the priming compound.

I use the Sinclair Priming Tool, and as NUB says, being portable, you can watch TV while priming, and not get wifey irritated that you're "still" in the gun room working on your stuff.

I'll watch varmint videos, Discovery, or the History Channel on a small TV/VCR wall mounted in my gun room when doing mundane tasks such as that myself, as priming is not very entertaining, but is necessary. In all cases, avoid using the priming tool on your press! If you want precision handloads, that is......



See those nice and shiny primer pockets on the cases not yet primed? Courtesy of the Forester Carbide Primer Pocket Reamer. Good stuff.