handload for a .38
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handload for a .38
A guy give me a box of 158gr lead SWC some bullseye and unique powder. Any one got experiance loading the .38special. thought i might give it a try since I had some dies just laying around.
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Re: handload for a .38
The 38 is easy to load for, but like most all pistol cartridges, you will need to "crimp" your loaded rounds. Personally, I quit using lead bullets a long time ago, mainly because of cleaning issues.
Look in your reloading manuals for load info, and remember you will be using lead SWC bullets. For swc bullets you will be using a roll crimp. I do not load with either powder mentioned. My choice is Titegroup under 158gr. copper plated bullets. I always keep over 1000 rounds of loaded ammo on hand and maybe 2000 fully prepped brass at all times. And I have untold thousands of brass on hand.
Look in your reloading manuals for load info, and remember you will be using lead SWC bullets. For swc bullets you will be using a roll crimp. I do not load with either powder mentioned. My choice is Titegroup under 158gr. copper plated bullets. I always keep over 1000 rounds of loaded ammo on hand and maybe 2000 fully prepped brass at all times. And I have untold thousands of brass on hand.
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HOWA 1500 Varmint 204 Ruger, Bull Barrel, Hogue Overmold Stock, Leupold VXII 6-18x40mm AO LRV Custom Reticle Timney Trigger
Cooper Mdl 21 20VarTargW/Leupold VXIII, 6-20x40AO Varmint Hunter reticle.
HOWA 1500 Varmint 204 Ruger, Bull Barrel, Hogue Overmold Stock, Leupold VXII 6-18x40mm AO LRV Custom Reticle Timney Trigger
Cooper Mdl 21 20VarTargW/Leupold VXIII, 6-20x40AO Varmint Hunter reticle.
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Re: handload for a .38
Should be easy to load. When using Bullseye you are using a very small amount of powder so it is possible to overcharge or double charge and this is bad. I like to weigh every round so it is not an issue for me but it is worth it to be extra careful. Unique is my personal favorite. It seems to always be consistant for me. You will get lead fowling but it is manageble. In reality lead fowling is not as hard to remove as copper fowling but it can look bad.
Check a speer reloading manual for appropriate amounts of powder and dont shoot really hot loads as they really tend to lead up most revolvers.
Check a speer reloading manual for appropriate amounts of powder and dont shoot really hot loads as they really tend to lead up most revolvers.
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Re: handload for a .38
Thanks. Dont remember seeing a crimp die. I will have to look. I was given all the components even primers except brass. There is a box of about 250 LSWC.
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Re: handload for a .38
Hopefully the dies you received came with the instructions on how to set your dies up to get your crimp.brokeasajoke wrote:Thanks. Dont remember seeing a crimp die
Your bullet seating die is your crimp die when adjusted right. It will give you what is called a roll crimp. Roll crimp is what you want for wad cutter or semi-wadcutter bullets. Also when loading bullets with a canalure. The bullets I use for 90% of my loads, do not have a canalure, so I use a separate die for a taper crimp.
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HOWA 1500 Varmint 204 Ruger, Bull Barrel, Hogue Overmold Stock, Leupold VXII 6-18x40mm AO LRV Custom Reticle Timney Trigger
Cooper Mdl 21 20VarTargW/Leupold VXIII, 6-20x40AO Varmint Hunter reticle.
HOWA 1500 Varmint 204 Ruger, Bull Barrel, Hogue Overmold Stock, Leupold VXII 6-18x40mm AO LRV Custom Reticle Timney Trigger
Cooper Mdl 21 20VarTargW/Leupold VXIII, 6-20x40AO Varmint Hunter reticle.