SmallCaliberCentral

I have a 527 in 221 Fireball, and I have never got it to shoot as good as I think it should. It's not bad, maybe an inch on a good day, but when I compare it to my Cooper mdl 38 in the same caliber, the CZ falls short, as my Cooper shoots in the 2's when I do my part. Given that I have one rifle in 221 FB that shoots great, I'm just not motivated to try out the bullet/powder combinations that it would take to figure out what the CZ really likes.

I am intrigued by Calhoons 19 Badger, and I am thinking about having Calhoon convert my 527. Cost for the barrel and conversion, done by them, is $720. As a point of comparison, a complete new rifle from Calhoon is $1,416, stocked in walnut. Based on what I originally paid for the CZ, the conversion seems to makes the most financial sense. However, a 527 in 221 is somewhat rare, and it may make more sense for me to sell the CZ in 221 FB, and buy the complete rifle from Calhoon in 19 Badger.

So, after my long-winded introduction, my question is this: What is an approximate market value for an excellent condition CZ 527 in 221 FB with one magazine?

If it were me, I would seriously consider converting your CZ over to a 20 Var Targ. You already have a very good platform to work with, and you still have a wildcat that you will have to work with.
As far as what your CZ is worth, it is only worth what someone is willing to pay you for it.
Just my 2 cents.

I would also say convert it to a 20VT and enjoy it, as a repeater, etc. As for value, most likely, I would say, around the $700.00 range if you sold the rifle, no scope. Bill K

Scott, that CZ in 221FB is now quite a desirable item, and there are many who would snap it up in a heartbeat if you decide to sell, as CZ does not offer the caliber at present, and there's guys that constantly cruise the net for them.

I've also got a Cooper M38 in 221FB and like yours, it easily shoots in the .2's with it's pet load. But my CZ 221FB shoots the same pet load always under 1/2", most of the time it's around 3/8" five-shot groups (it's properly bedded/floated). They also both use the same seating depth, so I can use the same handloads in either. The load is the Nosler 40gr Varmageddon Tipped (or their BT) over 20.0grs of A2200 in Lapua cases and a Rem 7-1/2 cap if you care to try it before parting with your rifle. (The same bullet and using 18.5 grs of RL-7 is just as accurate.)

If you care to sell your rifle, you'll get a very good price, but advertise it over on Saubier, as that's where the CZ 527 221FB aficionados hang out. That rifle on that forum is almost a Holy Grail so to speak; I've though about selling mine at times as I usually shoot my Cooper, but for now it'll stay in the battery, as it's a sweet carry rig for walkabouts.

You'd also never regret changing to a 20VT, a much more sensible thing to do in comparison to a 19 Badger. I've never heard of a 20VT owner that was not more than satisfied, many guys build more than one. Knowing what I know now about the caliber after fielding mine for five seasons now, I'd not hesitate one minute, as it's become my all-time favorite rat rifle caliber and one of the most accurate cartridges I've ever owned.

One last thing to consider about a 19 Badger.....you've only got ONE source of bullets....ONE. Think about that for a while before doing anything.

Choices, choices......once you make yours, let us know what you decided to do.

Rick in Oregon wrote:Scott, that CZ in 221FB is now quite a desirable item, and there are many who would snap it up in a heartbeat if you decide to sell, as CZ does not offer the caliber at present, and there's guys that constantly cruise the net for them.

I've also got a Cooper M38 in 221FB and like yours, it easily shoots in the .2's with it's pet load. But my CZ 221FB shoots the same pet load always under 1/2", most of the time it's around 3/8" five-shot groups (it's properly bedded/floated). They also both use the same seating depth, so I can use the same handloads in either. The load is the Nosler 40gr Varmageddon Tipped (or their BT) over 20.0grs of A2200 in Lapua cases and a Rem 7-1/2 cap if you care to try it before parting with your rifle. (The same bullet and using 18.5 grs of RL-7 is just as accurate.)

If you care to sell your rifle, you'll get a very good price, but advertise it over on Saubier, as that's where the CZ 527 221FB aficionados hang out. That rifle on that forum is almost a Holy Grail so to speak; I've though about selling mine at times as I usually shoot my Cooper, but for now it'll stay in the battery, as it's a sweet carry rig for walkabouts.

You'd also never regret changing to a 20VT, a much more sensible thing to do in comparison to a 19 Badger. I've never heard of a 20VT owner that was not more than satisfied, many guys build more than one. Knowing what I know now about the caliber after fielding mine for five seasons now, I'd not hesitate one minute, as it's become my all-time favorite rat rifle caliber and one of the most accurate cartridges I've ever owned.

One last thing to consider about a 19 Badger.....you've only got ONE source of bullets....ONE. Think about that for a while before doing anything.

Choices, choices......once you make yours, let us know what you decided to do.

The 20 VT is intriguing. I had been thinking about it, and I actually ordered Kindler's 20 cal book last week. Is forming brass straight forward? Is it simply running 221 FB brass into a VT sizer, or is there more to it? s neck turning required?

Scott, lots of 20VT shooters just run a new 221FB case into a 20VT F/L die, load and shoot. Using R-P brass, this works most often, but the very best way is to do it in two steps using a body die first, then a bushing neck die with a .226" bushing, as the loaded round usually comes out mic'ing .228" at the neck, and most 20VT neck I.D.'s run .232" or .234".

Neck turning is mandatory if you use Lapua brass, as it's thicker and more robust than R-P, but makes for the very, very best handloads possible. I neck turn all 20VT brass, as once necked-down, it's never concentric in terms of neck thickness, and a 'clean-up' cut on the necks really makes a difference in regard to TIR. I just loaded up a batch of 20VT today with R-P brass shot five times, and the TIR ran exactly .0015". This rifle has shot groups in the .1's......I just wish I could drive it that well all the time.

For the little work that's required to form brass to shoot a 20VT, it's so worth it that once you've spent time with yours, you'll ask yourself what took you so long to have one. I know I did.

With a 204R and a 20VT, a guy really doesn't 'need' any other varmint rifles (but what fun would that be?).

Rick talked me into my second 204R, and then a 20VT once upon a time. Absolutely NO regrets.

Another option for brass, although more time consuming, is to make it from Lake City 5.56/223 brass. The end result is incredibly consistent, super tough brass trimmed to your choice in OAL.