SmallCaliberCentral

I just started reloading for my new .204. Acutally, I just started reloading in general...I have never done it before this.

I have the Hornady Lock n Load Classic Kit, RCBS Neck sizer die, and some other odds and ends.

I Sized and de-primed all my bullets, then threw them in the ultrasonic cleaner, then dryed and de-burred them all.

Then re primed

Then added powder

Then Seated the new bullets. I seated them at 2.330 per someones pet load I found on here. 32 gr vmax.

So I went to range yesterday, got all setup went to chamber my first bullet and the bolt wouldn't go all the way forward...actually it was about 3/4 of an inch from being able to go all the way forward. I didn't push it, and just backed it right out, got the bullet out with a rod, and tried another, same thing. So I packed up and went home.

I don't think the bullet is seated out to far because its not even close to being able to close the bolt. I would think if the bullet was out a little to far is would be a lot closer. its like the bullet never got re-sized or something?

Can someone help.

Thanks,

Tyler

2002silverex wrote:I Sized and de-primed all my bullets, then threw them in the ultrasonic cleaner, then dryed and de-burred them all.

Is this the first reload on your brass or have you reloaded the same cases several times?

probably did not set the case neck back far enough.

This is my first reload with these bullets. So they were fired once before I reloaded them.

Stand one of your reloaded case's alongside a factory loaded case and see where the difference is, first. Then I would start by making sure my dies are set correctly in the press, adjusted properly. If so then resize a fired case and again compared it to a factory case.
If all measures out, then seat a bullet in a case (make a dummy case, no powder or primer) and see if that will chamber. See what you come up with then, as to fitting, etc. Bill K

Is the bolt going all the way forward but the knob is 3/4" from the final closed position? I wouldn't think that once-fired and neck-sized brass would stop the bolt from closing. Was there a lot of resistence when you lifted the press handle while you were sizing the brass? Did you lube the necks? I usually neck size my brass 2 or 3 times with aLee collet die before I set the shoulder back with a body die. If you needed a rod to get the bullet out it sounds like you may have a short throat rifle and the bullet is jammed in the lands too far. Can you see rifling marks on the bullets you pushed back out? Spilled powder in the trigger isn't a lot of fun to clean up...

The bolt is not going all the way forward. Its about 3/4" from going all the way forward.

I lubed the brass with the hornady one shot. and there was resistance but nothing crazy. I have nothing to compare it to though, as this is my first time reloading. I had a friend look at it and he thinks my seater die is down to far that I need to back it off a bit. Says it looks like I "crushed" the case a bit, causing a little ripple around the neck? Does this make sense?

I put one of my reloaded bullets next to a factory bullet and they look almost idecntical except maybe a little fatter in the neck?

Not sure if I took a pic and posted it if you could see it. If someone wants to give me there email I could email a closeup of my reloaded bullet?

2002silverex wrote: I had a friend look at it and he thinks my seater die is down to far that I need to back it off a bit. Says it looks like I "crushed" the case a bit, causing a little ripple around the neck? Does this make sense?

That does make sense. If the body of the seating die is set too low, you'll crush the case. There's shouldn't be very much resistence at all when seating bullets. Remove the seating die from the press. Put a case in the press and raise the ram all the way. Screw the die into the press. It should screw all the way in with no resistence at all. If there is any resistence it's set too low, loosen the locking ring and adjust it properly.

"Before we use any power tools, let's take a moment to talk about shop safety. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And remember this: there is no more important safety rule than to wear these — safety glasses." --Norm Abram--

Same goes for reloading. You're building high pressure capsules that you're going to set off in a piece of steel next to your head.

inKYfromSD wrote: You're building high pressure capsules that you're going to set off in a piece of steel next to your head.

What a great definition of reloading. It should be printed in big red letters on page one of every reloading manual published.

Buy a case gauge.....

I notice you didn't mention chamfering the case mouth in your process. When using flat base bullets that are hard to seat, it is important to get that little chamfer edge to help them get started. That along with your seater die being too deep could swell the shoulder enough to prevent closing.

Don't get discouraged, but do by all means take the advice on wearing safety glasses.

I'm assuming these cases are once fired in your rifle. If so, they should not need the shoulder set back as right now they should be a perfect fireformed fit to your chamber. Take an empty shell without the bullet and see if the bolt closes easily. If so, then it is definitely your seating process causing the problem.

Yep
I'll bet your using a standard RCBS seater die. It has a built in roll crimp. Set it to contact the shellholder and you'll bulge the body just under the shoulders.

Place brass in shellholder, raise ram. Screw in the seater until you feel it hit the brass. Now back out the seater 1/2 -3/4 turn and lock the ring.

Been there done that.

jo191145, you are exactly correct and i did do exactly what you said. Seems to be working perfectly now. Thank you everyone for your input! Its appreciated! Cant wait to get to the range!

Tyler

Another quick questions. Again I have Hornady LNL press, and RCBS Neck Size die. Also RCBS Digital Caliper.

When I do my final bullet seating, it always measures just a TAD different every time. One time OAL is 2.325, then 2.327 then 2.324

Is this normal? Or should it be exact same every time?

Hornady Brass
32gr vmax bullet
fed 205 primer

What you're seeing is minor differences in actual bullet length and small variances in the poly tips......nothing to fret about, you'll see this all the time; just manufacturing tolerances, nothing else.

What really matters is the actual length from base to the bullet ojive, and if/when you measure your loaded rounds with something like the Hornady comparator, you'll most likely see your seating depths are all about perfect in this regard.