SmallCaliberCentral

Hi guys,

Here's the thing. I have got brand new unfired brass for my new .204, new full length dies unused, and knek sizing dies on the way. Should i set the FL dies up as per instructions and FL size the new brass 1st of all and then use the kneck sizing die after they have been fired. Never reloaded with new brass before.

What do you guys do?


Steve.

Steve - You don't want to F/L size new brass....it'll fit your factory chamber now as-is, but you do want to size the neck to iron out any imperfections and to also size it to properly hold the bullet. F/L sizing new brass works the brass needlessly and serves no purpose whatever.

Do your flash hole and primer pocket uniforming first (if you do these ops), neck size and load/shoot. I always length trim new brass after first firing, as the brass will stretch all over the map the first time....it's silly to trim twice in a row IMO.

You'll find as you gain experience, that it's seldom necessary to F/L resize your brass unless you're loading for an autoloader. Maybe after about five or six firings, you'll need to bump the shoulder back a bit to chamber easily, but you'll know when that time is by a hard bolt close.

Just remember to use neck lube. I use Imperial Dry Neck Lube, a graphite-like powder substance that only requires dipping the neck in the stuff and size, wipes off with a rag...no mess. For when you need to F/L size, I recommend Imperial Sizing Wax...also wipes right off with a rag...good stuff. Good luck, go slow and use a reloading manual; most questions can be answered in the "how to reload" section at the beginning of each one.

Thanks for the reply mate, I know this may be a daft question but, ill have to wait till i get my Lee collet die to size the neck wont I?

Is this right?

Cheers

Steve.

247, don't know what kind of FL dies you have. However, I use my Redding Type-S FL sizer to size the neck only. Works just fine.

I agree with Rick. New brass only needs to be neck sized. Seems to me that Winchester brass is more beat up then Remington out of the bag. I like both of the lubrication products he mentioned. One large tin of wax and a container of neck lube will last you several years. I have a problem getting the dry lube to stick the the inside of the necks of some brass. On new brass I've started using a q-tip smeared with wax for inside the necks. Size and wipe it out with a different q-tip.

The lee collet die may leave the neck tension a little loose for your liking. There is plenty of advice on the 'net to help with that. Be sure to clean your new dies well before using them.

Good luck!

247sniper wrote:Thanks for the reply mate, I know this may be a daft question but, ill have to wait till i get my Lee collet die to size the neck wont I?

Is this right?

Cheers

Steve.

Steve/ You can neck size only with your f/l dies. Just back them off the shell holder one full turn, run a lubed case up and see if it is just short of hitting the shoulder of the case, you will see the markings on the neck. That will work til you get your other die. Bill K

One problem I ran into with using a full length die (did the partial sizing thing for many years) is the neck runout can run as high as .007". That probably won't affect hunting loads in a factory chamber. For benchrest and varmint loads, that's way too much neck runout. MY Lee collet die consistently gives me .002" and under. I have also used the Lee to straighten necks sized in a full length die.

GaCop103 wrote:One problem I ran into with using a full length die (did the partial sizing thing for many years) is the neck runout can run as high as .007". That probably won't affect hunting loads in a factory chamber. For benchrest and varmint loads, that's way too much neck runout. MY Lee collet die consistently gives me .002" and under. I have also used the Lee to straighten necks sized in a full length die.

Are/were you taking a case with good run out (.003 or less), run it thru F/L die and then get a run out of .007? If so, I would look at the die itself (including the decapping rod assembly) and the reloading press it self.

I ran into a similar scenairo a couple of years back and I found a bent deacpping rod, only to later find a worn out press. Replaced both and things have been good ever since. If you have a case with bad run out, try firing it in the rifle and recheck. It should be good afterwards.

Jim White wrote:

GaCop103 wrote:One problem I ran into with using a full length die (did the partial sizing thing for many years) is the neck runout can run as high as .007". That probably won't affect hunting loads in a factory chamber. For benchrest and varmint loads, that's way too much neck runout. MY Lee collet die consistently gives me .002" and under. I have also used the Lee to straighten necks sized in a full length die.

Are/were you taking a case with good run out (.003 or less), run it thru F/L die and then get a run out of .007? If so, I would look at the die itself (including the decapping rod assembly) and the reloading press it self.

I ran into a similar scenairo a couple of years back and I found a bent deacpping rod, only to later find a worn out press. Replaced both and things have been good ever since. If you have a case with bad run out, try firing it in the rifle and recheck. It should be good afterwards.

I'm using a new RCBS Rockchucker that replaced my worn out Rockchucker Jr. If I just partially neck size with a RCBS or Lee full length die, I would get the wacky runout. My Lee collet die always brings the necks back into alignment. Loaded rounds are also checked after seating in my Forster comp die and runout is .002 or less on my Hornady gauge.

Not sure if I understand the; "partial neck size" but either way, sounds like you have it all worked out.