SmallCaliberCentral

This is number 3. I have been tumbling all of my cases to remove any residues or dirts and using imperial sizing wax on the outside and a little bit on the inside of the neck as well. I have no idea why these cases keep getting stuck. This one is in an RCBS full length sizer and the previous one was in a Redding, so I'm positive it's not the die. Is there a chance that my M77 has an oddly formed chamber is somehow causing this? Up until I've been using this rifle I have never had an issue with stuck cases, NEVER. Please, any input will be much appreciated. I was going to just take the barrel off and put a Lilja on since this thing won't group anyway. But now, I'm thinking about selling it and just buying another Cooper lol.

Post a picture of a fired case and a full length resized case.

Full length resized case on left and fired case on right.

Need closer.

Off the cuff, your FL resized case looks a little short on the die contact towards the base of the shell.

Is this a 204? or ???

Could be a weak extractor or an incorrect profile on the extractor.

I cant get much closer with the camera I have. It gets kind of blurry. Yes it is a 204. When I raised the shell into the die it was very rough and "jumpy".

If you're using a digital camer look and see if it has a "macro" setting. Usually, the setting on the Mode switch/dial will look like a single tulip on a stem.

HTH,

My .02 If you own a caliper.........take and measure your fired brass before sizing in 2 place, the web area and the base of shoulder. Check this against a sized piese of brass. Remove your expander ball and see you have a resistance problem in die it self.
Before this will a fired case go back in the rifle and chamber without a problem?
Check these few points.
Later
Ray P

I'm going to be out of town for the next 2 weeks, so I won't be able to adjust/check anything until the first weekend of March. It's just odd because I've had this problem in 2 different RCBS dies and in 1 Redding die. This makes me think it had somethin to do with the M77 chamber (bad manufacturing maybe?). I have never had this problem before with any other caliber that I've reloaded... Thanks for the input so far. Like I said, when I get back home, I'll check on all of those things and let you know how it worked out.

Jeff

check your die; some RCBS full length dies have a pin hole in the side of die to let air out.If it gets clogged ,cases stick.just use small needle to clean out hole.hope this helps.

varget204 wrote:check your die; some RCBS full length dies have a pin hole in the side of die to let air out.If it gets clogged ,cases stick.just use small needle to clean out hole.hope this helps.

I was thinkin about that... Is it a problem if the lock ring is around where the hole is?

I use lee quick change bushings; they cover most of die body;just have to make sure die is cleaned ,i remove decapping rod and use one shot case lube or gunzilla on a patch.the hole is usually in center of die. Lock ring shouldn't be as a bad.

jd,
I called the RCBS hotline with the same problem on a 220 Swift AI die several years ago. Figured the conversation was going nowhere when a little girl on the other end offered her help. She proceeded to give me a lesson on lubing and resizing very straight wall cartridge cases, she knew her stuff. Clean your die often with the same solvent you clean barrels with, keep that little vent hole clean and open, use good lube, use the same brand of shell holder as your reloading die. Solved my problem. We did not agree on what was good lube at first. She wanted me to use RCBS and I wanted to use Dillon. We settled on Imperial sizing wax.

Thanks! From what i've been seeing and reading, it sounds like the problem may very well be coming from the vent hole or the die just being dirty. When I get back home in a couple of weeks I will break it down and give it a good cleaning and let you know how it goes. In the meantime keep the suggestions coming! Thanks!!

Get ya-all a tub of Hornady's Unique sizing lube and smear some on your forefinger and rub with your thumb and then the case. Concentrate on the area of the case head. Once the die is saturated with the stuff it will never stick again. If you meet any chattering resistance when the case goes in, stop - it will stick.

Only better stuff is Corbin's Bullet Swaging Lube, packaged in quarts. Or you can make your own. Buy a one pound tub of anhydrous lanolin from the drug store or online, then mix it in equal parts with mineral oil in small batches. Lanolin is sticker than pine pitch, and you wind up with a faint sheepy odor (not for use in Texas) - but it works.

The little vent hole usually causes dented shoulders if it's plugged, but not stuck cases so much.

The vent hole is usually plugged with a dab of diamond lapping compound from the internal polishing stage (unless RCBS changed to some modern honing machine). I pop it out with a paper clip, then wash the die in Berryman's or brake cleaner, and blow it out with compressed air. All that preservative gunk has to be cleaned out. Getting them that clean is a sure way to stick a case unless the die is pre-lubed with a patch saturated with Hornady's Unique case lube or some other greasy slimy stuff. That wax stuff ain't going to get it.

If you stick a case don't do what I did and throw the die out the window. Or at least open the window first, it cost $125 to replace the window and scared the neighbor's cat into leaving home for two days.

I use either Hornady's Unique Case Lube, or their One Shot Dry Lube after the die is broken in. Rub a little Unique on the case and they will never stick - period (unless the die is kaput). Once the die is saturated with the stuff it works real smooth. The Unique can be used to treat your boots - it's similar to leather dressing - in fact it smells like the stuff White's Boots sends with a new pair.

The only better lube is Corbin's Bullet Swaging Lube sold in quarts and used on a pad. I used to make swagging lube using Anhydrous Lanolin USP and mineral oil mixed in equal parts, absolutely the best stuff for forming wildcat cases. You can get a pound tub of Anhydrous Lanolin USP - it has to be pure wool fat not the cosmetic stuff - from the friendly druggist or online. It's sticky and smells faintly like - well, sheep. (Mix it with pine tar, Vitamin D, beeswax and just a smidgen of turpentine in a double boiler and you got a great hoof dressing for your horse when it cools.)

So there you have it, you just ain't using enough sticky, slimy, greasy lube on the first few cases.