SmallCaliberCentral

Has anyone used the Hornady Annealing System? What's your opinion?

Jersey Hunter

I just spin them in my drill with a deep well socket so they only get annealed around the shoulder and neck. You'll probably find a few different methods used by other members.



I used to use this 3/8" nut driver socket. I was having to control how much below the shoulder was getting annealed by sight. Now, I found a Husky 7/16" deep well socket that works just right. The only part of the case left exposed to the flame is from about 3/8" below the shoulder to the case mouth. My cases look like they are factory annealed now.

Was'nt exactly sure what the Hornady system consisted of so I looked.
Three shellholders and a bottle of Templaq. $50.00 bucks from Hornady. Cheaper elsewhere I'm sure.

No different than Skippers method really. Save yourself a few bucks and use a deep dish socket like everyone else.
Its quite simple after you've done a few. Practice on some scrap brass first. Different brass will require different annealing times so a little practice/experience will help. As with everything else consistency is the key.

I'm not real sure how the right way is to anneal. I used to put some brass in a level pan and add water untill the only part of the cases left showing was the neck and shoulders. Then with a propane torch, heat up the exposed part of the shoulder and neck with the flame untill it got almost red hot or slightly red. I have not done this to any of my 204 Win brass yet. Is this the right way to do it ?

c shooter

Some folks do it that way but I think you get a much more even anneal if they're spinning while heating. I admit I've never tried the pan method. Started with Skippers method and it was easy and made sense.

You do NOT want to see red. That would be "dead soft" and not considered a good thing
6mmBR.com has a good article on annealing which is a good place to start. You could search here also. I know Skippers run through it a few times.

Most folk who use the spin method drop them into a bucket of water to ensure the heat does not convect towards the web where it does not belong. I've found with small light brass such as the 204 its not necessary. I drop them right into a box avoiding the drying process and more importantly differing neck conditions. When those hot necks hit water and sizzle they clean the carbon up quite a bit. Just like cleaning a dirty pan by boiling water in it.
Not necessarily a bad thing but I like to keep my necks dirty. Always dirty always consistent

My 6.5x284 and 308 brass goes into a bucket with a wet towel in it. Just enough water in it to soak the towel and cool the brass body but not enough to get into the case.
Just my method, not necessarily right

Blue is the color you are looking for. As the brass heats up you will notice a blue line forming towards the edge of the heated and unheated brass. Quit then. When you remove the flame the part of the brass directly in the flame should be silver colored with the blue stripe on the edge of the heated and unheated area. Sometimes I get a pink color instead of blue. Depends on the brass.

Thanks again guys, I'll read that about the annealing. Thanks again.

A method that I've heard about (can't vouch for it - never tried it - but it sounds OK) is dipping the neck and shoulder in molten lead. Seems like it ought to work...

I set a torch on the kitchen counter. put a case in a 10mm deep set socket that comes up close to the shoulder of the case. then dim the lights and spin the case in the flame of the torch with a drill and give a eight count while watching the color of the brass. then dump it in a dry pan. The socket length shields the brass case and keeps the heat where it belongs. Then after polishing in a tumbler I resize with a Lee neck sizer die. I can anneal about 100 cases in 30 minutes or so.

Thanks a deep well socket is a good idea. I think I will try to get some liquid tempilaq from Brownells until I get used to how much heat I need.