OPINIONS: Prep new brass for reloading?

[TEXAS222]

Hello all. I've got a question for you seasoned reloaders about preparing new brass for loading, specially .204 & .223 with new Norma brass. I've been loading a few years but still learning. My process with new brass has been: size with Lee collet neck sizer & chamfer inside & out. Some people tell me that I'm just wasting my time. Is this what you guys do or if they look good just load and shoot? I'd appreciate hearing your opinions on this subject. Thanks, JD Southeast Texas

[Jim White]

I've never used Norma, Nosler, RWS or Lapua brass but for my Winchester & Remington brass to be used in a bolt-action rifle, I do the following;

First & foremost; I try to buy all I can of the same LOT, it makes sorting that much easier, IMO.

- Inspect the cases and set aside those that show any of the following;
* Split necks
* Off center flash hole.

- Take 1-case and 1-bullet that you intend to use and load one dummy round. Afterwards, measure the outside of the case neck and record the value.
- Set up F/L neck bushing die for .002 less that the measurement of a loaded case. If using a gas-gun just use a STD F/L die or set neck tension at .004 to .005 less than the measurement recorded above.

- Weigh the cases and I use a +/- 1% (2% total). Those that don't make weight I put aside as barrel fouling rounds.

- Deburr the flash hole.
- Uniform the primer pocket.

- Run all cases thru the F/L [bushing] die.

- Measure the case necks, and look for a range within .003 for example .0110 to .0140. For those that have high spots, for example 0.150, I set those aside for neck turning. NOTE: as I'm measuring; once I come across the first case that requires turning any cases thereafter that measures over .0135 automatically get set aside for neck turning. Any case less than 0.110 gets set aside as a barrel fouling round.
- Neck turn the cases that need it. NOTE: using the #'s in the previous step I would adjust the cutter to get the necks to 0.0125. Afterwards, any case that was turned gets set aside as barrel fouling round during fire forming; afterwards it goes in the mix with all of the others.

- Chamfer inside the case mouth.
- Chamfer the outside of the case mouth.

NOTE: With this being said; I've heard that Nosler, Lapua, Norma & RWS brass has already been prepped so you'll have to check to the degree of brass prep they do. I would still check the case necks for uniformity and turn any that would need it "if you chose too". It's not necessary for functioning but if some are way out there it "will'' affect accuracy as the range distance increases.

NOTE: For weighing cases, if it has to be done on a beam scale it becomes quite the chore. A couple years back I bought a small Hornady digital scale that wasn't very expensive at the time and it is just perfect for this chore.

NOTE: Any case that was set aside for abnormalities that is safe for firing get set aside as barrel fouling rounds.

You don't have to do any of this stuff but it sure helps in the accuracy department. It sounds like a LOT but you only have to do it once and it pays off IMO.

HTH,

[TEXAS222]

Wow Jim, thanks. I'm into accuracy. I've got really good equipment already, Lyman digital scale, comparator, run out gauge, etc. Thanks for the information, I will surly use it. How about case trimming, do you trim after every firing if needed. I'm using a bolt gun and neck sizing, pushing the shoulder back .002. Thank you. Jim D Southeast Texas

[RAMOS]

If you have been wasting your time with brass prep, Jim and I are in even worse shape! I use converted Lake City brass for the 20 VT, WW for the 204 R and Nosler (as of last Fall) for a couple different big game cartridges. The Nosler brass was just a tad short for OAL out of the box. It did, however benefit from a quick touch of the primer pocket uniformer.

My routine with new brass:
1. Visual inspection to weed out any culls.
2. Chamfer inside/outside of neck.
3. Full length size w/out expander ball.
4. Open necks w/ expand iron, measure thickness for 80% cleanup with neck turner.
5. De-burr flash holes.
6. Uniform, primer pockets.
7. Weigh prepped cases. Not to segregate, just to find anything unusually light or heavy that would indicate an issue with that particular piece.

If possible, and it usually is, I fire once before trimming to a uniform length because the brass will lose length on the first firing. Now, I really doubt that all this is absolutely necessary but, it certainly removes a few variables in the accuracy/consistency equation. Plus, I honestly enjoy doing it. HTH's

[Jim White]

When you look at the case mouths during the inspection and discover they aren't uniform then yes I would trim them. Knock on wood, I haven't had to trim cases yet because of that. Always....always measure case length before trimming and I've heard that Nosler brass has a reputation for being just a hair short OAL.

As you can see; RAMOS and I do basically the same thing but in different steps. I choose to measure right off before any brass is removed because I want to know as best I can the internal volume and my thinking is it brass removal could mask a borderline case.

We differ a little on neck-turning as well. I'm looking to knock the high edges off instead of a certain percent clean up. One thing about neck turning especially with gas-guns and factory chambers is during the uniformining process is you don't want to get the necks to thin and have excessive neck spring back. When measuring necks I measure three sides and if all are within tolerance I move to the next one. If not, then I measure roughly 6-8 sides to get as accurate of a measurement as I can because if it is below borderline thin on one side it goes into the barrel fouling pile.

I didn't talk about neck expansion in my initial reply but if you have to do that I would do that early on. One thing for sure, expanding necks up to a larger caliber will reveal a bad case because they usually will split. The upside it saves you from needlessly doing the rest of the steps for a case that is getting tossed. Right now I'm prepping 17 FB brass for my 20VT and a few necks have split.

I know it seems like a lot but you only have to do it once and I feel it pays off in the long haul.

HTH,

[futuretrades]

It is my opinion, if your rifle has a factory barrel and chamber, with new brass, neck turning is a waste of time. I go thru the same process that you said you do. I don't understand running new brass thru your full length die. Take a piece of brand new brass and chamber it in your rifle. You will find it chambers just fine. If you are taking brass of a different caliber, and necking up or down, you will need to turn the necks. If your rifle is a custom chamber, you may want to turn the necks. I do uniform the primer pockets. I don't trim new brass. After fire forming, I do check case length, and if over spec I will trim back to spec.
On a side note, I am not a competition shooter, so as long as I can shoot groups with my loads, that are 1/2 in. or better, I am happy. All of my shooting is at "Skippy", or once in a while to check my zero.
Just my 2 cents, and worth every bit that anybody has paid me!

[TEXAS222]

futuretrades, that's where I'm at, 1/2 in. or better is my goal. None of my guns have a per say "custom" chamber & I'm not a competition shooter although I enjoy small groups. The closest thing I have to custom is a Shilen 204 & a WOA 223 barrel that I put on AR's. I do enjoy reading everyone's opinion as it will help me figure out my own routine. Thanks guys. Jim D Southeast Texas

[RAMOS]

As much as anything, the reward I get from the steps I go through prepping brass is this: I remove the niggling thought from the back of my mind that asks, 'Have you done everything in your power to produce CONSISTENT ammunition?'. Having 110% confidence in my prepared loads makes me shoot better. I am very detail-oriented, quite possibly compulsive. However, for me, if I enjoy the process it is not time wasted.

A guy can put his brass through a minimum or maximum number of steps. If you are safe, having fun and like the results, you are doing it right!

[TEXAS222]

My wife says I have a compulsive disorder about detail. I too like things as close to perfect as possible, but some things I just didn't know how to do, the reason for these opinions. I do have an issue that bothers the **** out of me. I have good shooter control, excellent triggers, & equipment but sometimes I'll be on a great 1 hole group then have a flyer, not always the last shot, that makes it 1/2" or bigger. I've had in my mind that if I do something different while reloading that this might not happen. Thanks to you fellows, I have a lot of things to try. Thank you. Jim D.

[Jim White]

If you want to reduce the fliers [and by the way, one needs to consider the fliers in the overall group size "unless" there is an explanation; otherwise, you're only fooling yourself if you don't] you should try to make your ammo as accurate s possible.

Sizing new cases; I just recently started doing this only because I've came across a few that didn't want to chamber without exerting some extra effort. For this task, I have a Dillon 650 sitting on my bench thats been collecting dust. For me, I throw the cases in my case feeder, power it up, insert the correct block with the corret die and start pulling the handle. I can do 100 cases real quick [just pull the handle...] and then I don't have to worry about it in the field or at the most inopportune time because that is where Murphy luks.

Neck turning; IMO, a good load with a uniform neck will out shoot a good load with a non-uniform (.003 or less) neck; others results may vary.

Like, RAMOS, I like to reduce all the variables because many of those rats are awfully small way out yonder

Good luck in your ventures, which ever way you choose to go.

HTH

[TEXAS222]

Thank you Jim, Ramos, I really enjoy reading your posts. Jim D.

[Bodei]

I notice that a lot of reloaders have severe OCD!

[RAMOS]

I notice that a lot of reloaders have severe OCD!

Well, at least it keeps us off the streets...

[TEXAS222]

Hi bodei. Maybe if you keep reading our comments you will get lucky and get OCD also. Have a good day. JD

[Jim White]

Well...accuracy is a subjective thing. Some, like me, try to squeeze every last bit of MOA spread out, regardless of what the target is. For others, 1 MOA or slightly less is acceptable. The only way to make those ground squirrels larger @ 500 yards is to make the ammo shoot tighter groups.