SmallCaliberCentral

Is it possible to expand the neck like you do with pistol bullets to make loading the FB bullets a bit quicker?

Im going to order a VLD chamfer tool but wonder if its possible at all. Also looking at modding a lee rifle charge die to work, i want to pump out 204 on the progressive and theres a few hang ups.

07yzryder wrote:Is it possible to expand the neck like you do with pistol bullets to make loading the FB bullets a bit quicker?

Im going to order a VLD chamfer tool but wonder if its possible at all. Also looking at modding a lee rifle charge die to work, i want to pump out 204 on the progressive and theres a few hang ups.

All you should really have to do is chamfer the case mouth with the VLD tool. I do not believe the progressive needs the mouth opened/expanded like you do with handgun case's, but since I do not use a progressive I am not 100 % on that. Someone with oe should chime in with straight info. Bill K

I don't think I would expand the necks like you do for a pistol cartridge because it would seem to me to be over working the neck which can lead to spilt necks (and so on down the road). As far as a chamfer tool, I use the one from K&M and it may be a little pricy but it sure does work well and really cuts it at a steep angle.

HTH,

+ One on that, Jim. You never bell a rifle cartridge case as you would pistol cases in a progressive. If you're having trouble with flat-base bullets, then a seating die with the sliding sleeve is the way to go. Both Redding and RCBS offer this die option....expensive, but very well worth the price of admission, as these dies give much better TIR than any standard factory seating die. This type of die is all I use in all my target/varmint rifles, along with a VLD chamfering tool.

Belling a rifle case WILL overwork the brass and produce split necks. Rifles work at much higher operating pressure than any pistol, so that brass really takes a beating in a rifle operating at 50K psi+.

Just looked at the K&M was debating on that or the CRT chamfer, the K&M looks a little cleaner on the cuts. Just ordered on.

Also goign to a friends shop this weekend to have a new Lee rifle charge die insert made. Going to have the ID of the new piece .195/.190 so i can run tac through it (i attach a vibrating tool to the powder dropper for consistent drops, should also alleviate bridging.) This will be perfect for my hunting loads, minute of coyote all day.

Thanks for the tips on the VLD tool i didnt realize the angle was that different until i seen mine next to one on a video... wow...

For the sliding sleeve, is it possibe to upgrade a standard seating die with it? I have a redding die set but no sleeve in mine.

07yzryder wrote:For the sliding sleeve, is it possibe to upgrade a standard seating die with it? I have a redding die set but no sleeve in mine.

Short answer: "No."

Rick in Oregon wrote:

07yzryder wrote:For the sliding sleeve, is it possibe to upgrade a standard seating die with it? I have a redding die set but no sleeve in mine.

Short answer: "No."

Did some looking noticed its their competition seater line, well guess im upgrading dies. its an AR so ill stick with the FL sizer and just get the comp seater.

thanks again.

Those Redding Competition-Seating dies are worth every penny you pay for them. However be advised of two things with them (and I got this info from the good folks @ Redding a while back);

1. When tightening down the lock ring (after adjusting it to your press) DO-NOT over tighten. The Redding Competition die body is thinner than the standard seating dies to allow for the "bullet alignment sleeve" and if over tighten, it could crimp/dent/warp the die body ever so slightly.

2. Be aware that compressed loads "could" cause some seating stem issues if used repetitively over a long period of time. In fact, it specifically states this on the Redding website.

Otherwise, they're a superb product. They also make a Competition-Neck sizing die that looks strikingly familiar to the COMP die but I've never used it.

HTH,

I wanted to point out that in addition to Redding dies, Forester/Bonanza BR dies work very well, just as good as Redding dies IMO (and I have both). Some like Lee Collet dies and speak very highly of them but I'm not familiar with them.

HTH,

Redding Type S Match FL bushing die with micrometer seating die will serve you well.

Off topic but i managed to find someone local with a lathe and some free time to make a new insert for my charging die. Fits the neck perfect tested 6 powder drops and 3 were 26.5 1 26.6 and a 27. The 27 was due to a virlbrating device for settling powder vibrating the screws loose. Should help me pump out coyote loads quick now.

Sorry New die on the right stock on the left