SmallCaliberCentral

Sorry guys, I didn't mean to start a major discussion other than to attempt to provide a legitimate/helpful answer to the original post...If you go back to my original post, "due to a high dollar Egg Shoot coming up," where I provided my initial reason for weighing this batch (1st prize is a custom AR with a value of about $1,800), I don't normally weigh my bullets on a regular basis either....It was just a fluke that the question came up and I had some input to the question...And, having shot the competition before and coming in 3rd, I want every edge possible...

I think it's great that this post came up. All kinds of good tips from lots of different people. The scotch-brite suggestion made me think to mention the method I use. After deburring (VLD on inside), I chuck a magnetic nut driver in the cordless drill. Stuff it full of 0000 steel wool and give each case mouth a quick burst, maybe 1-2 seconds. The hex shape of the driver keeps the material from spinning and the magnet keeps it from falling out. I do this with the mouth pointed down so nothing can fall in to the case. When done, they feel smooth as velvet. I'm not so sure that I did not learn this here some time ago!

Ramos. I also do exactly as you described, in fact with the larger calibers I do not chamfer the inside of the case mouth anymore if I'm shooting a boat tail bullet. I feel that if I do not make a perfectly even chamfer that it is detrimental to accuracy. I knock out the burrs from trimming with a worn out bore brush then use the steel wool to make it smooth. I learned this from Richard Franklin of Richards Custom Rifles. Seems to work well.

OldTurtle wrote:Sorry guys, I didn't mean to start a major discussion other than to attempt to provide a legitimate/helpful answer to the original post...

I'm glad you did. I always learn someting useful in threads like this, and I'm sure other reloading rookies do too.

Guys, there is only one way to obtain perfectly uniform weight and shaped jacketed bullets, you gotta make your own. I made my own 7mm open tip bullets for years for metallic silhouette shooting, each bullet came from the same dies using precision jackets. The weight for some was set at 130 grains +/- 0 grains. Any difference in weight could not be detected with a reloading scale. One little 117 grain bullet I made to use up a batch of short jackets managed to consistently hit 4" diameter "turkey eggs" at 200 meters from a 10" Production Class Contender. I hit 7 out of 10 turkey eggs to break a tie once upon a time. Finally I gave it all up because those factory bullets offered all the practical accuracy I needed, and opening a box is easier that drawing and straightening lead wire, cutting cores, swagging and seating cores, and all the rest. If you need that degree of accuracy, sort away, but there are few rifles and shooters that can realize any difference. Weighing rimfire match ammo is another story.

Also all the legends about detrimental effects of tumbling brass is nonsense, especially in corncob or nut shell media.

I don't weigh bullets but have found my accuracy has improved by measuring a bullets base to ogive. I segregate by length, not weight.

GaCop wrote:I don't weigh bullets but have found my accuracy has improved by measuring a bullets base to ogive. I segregate by length, not weight.

Same for me.

Jim White wrote:One of the things I have done out of courisoity is measuring the bearing surface length of the bullet. There are some differences. Don't know if it means a whole lot unless one is in the BR world.

I started measuring base to ogive, segrating bullets by oal. So far it seems to have shrunk my groups and lowered Standard Deviation for all bench calibers I load for.
Tom

On larger caliber bullets, it may pay dividends.... but after trying it with 39gr SBKs and my fat fumble fingers, it's just not worth the effort... Maybe my OCD is diminishing with age....