SmallCaliberCentral

Sharptail Hunter. I have bought the Hornady OAL Gauge, The Bullet comparator, and thhe head space Gauge. I have leaned how to use the tools from what you have wrote and instructions that i got. I am left with one question tho. For The Head space gauge you said you use a fired case and than subtract .002 from the fired case. Now the question is the fire forming of shooting a round makes the cartridge have zero head space? so thats how you get your .002 of head space? I sure hope so cuz than the concept it easy for me to understand Thanx again bud!!!

The Reloader wrote:. Now the question is the fire forming of shooting a round makes the cartridge have zero head space? so thats how you get your .002 of head space?

In theory the fired case matches the dimensions of your chamber perfectly so that there would be zero headspace. For the sake of argument, let's just say that it very closely matches your chamber. So, yes, to allow for enough tolerance so that I can close the bolt without undue force, I have found that .002" is sufficient for my rifle. You might have to experiment some. Note however, that after so many firings of neck sizing or partial full-length sizing, the cases may become hard to chamber or extract and at that point you would need to full-length size them again.

A couple of points to remember:
1. Neck sizing is a good idea for bench rest/target shooting, probably not a great idea for hunting cartridges because it doesn't matter how accurate the cartridge is if you can't have that follow up shot because your case is stuck in your rifle, you have now just screwed yourself by trying to get that last little bit of accuracy.
2. Any cartridge that is neck-sized only should ONLY be used in the rifle you used to measure the case, i.e. No lending them to friends to try out in their rifle. Remember, each rifle has its own chamber/head space dimensions.

Thanx again for you detailed answer they really do help a lot! I guess Im left with one last question (I think last question) about head spacing. I have read somewhere about putting o rings just above the rim to make the stretching go to the neck rather than the head of the cartridge. And if it is the head that stretches how is the head being sized back when neck sizing or does not matter that the head wont go back? Hope this question is not too confusing Thanx again in advance bud!

The Reloader wrote:I will most positively get the book when it comes out thank so much for the info. I'm at Cabelas in Hartford CN prolly 2 times a week (i don't even know why since half the time I don't have money to buy ne thing) But anyway Im surprised they don't have this book there!! Thanx for the info!!

Hi Reloader
I see your from my neck of the woods.
Perhaps some day you'll wish to attend a Match and see what the end result of accuracy is all about.
You can shoot or watch, your choice. Your Lead Sled is not IBS legal but maybe the Match Director would allow it in factory class.
I could find out if you wish.
http://www.bellcity.org/Benchrest.php
Theres also egg shoots in dartmouth Mass. Whole lot of fun and where I started Competition shooting.
http://rvbprecision.com/egg-shoot-info
Anyhow enjoy your new hobby and if you wish to take the next step give a holler

That Does Sound Realy fun. I need to find my load first I just got the 204 so i need to exeperiment for a bit first.

The Reloader wrote: I have read somewhere about putting o rings just above the rim to make the stretching go to the neck rather than the head of the cartridge. And if it is the head that stretches how is the head being sized back when neck sizing or does not matter that the head wont go back?

I wouldn't know about using O rings because I only reload rimless cartridges such as the .204. The neck can stretch in two different ways. First, it stretches in circumfrence during the firing process. That is what you're reducing by neck sizing. Second, it stretches in length during full length resizing. So, in all practicality, if you're only neck sizing, you wouldn't have to worry about it growing in length for two reasons. One, because you aren't full length sizing and two, because the case wouldn't have stretched too much because you would have started with minimal headspace because you only neck sized.

About the case stretching. The case stretches in an area right above the head. It does it there because the rest of the case is pressed tightly against the chamber walls during firing and the head is left floating, sort of. Naturally, it will stretch where it's not pressed against the chamber walls. Full length sizing in a way causes the stretched brass to flow to the neck and that's why it causes the neck to lengthen. Eventually, that process would cause the case to thin out too much above the head and that's one way to get case-head separation. Your full length die doesn't resize the head. You should be able to see just how far down the case it will size. I have seen where some guys are making a push through die that kind of sizes the whole case, but those were always for pistol cases.

The "O" ring trick is commonly used on the .303 case. The Enfield rifle chambers are known to be oversized. The rubber "O" ring helps to eliminate the bulge that occures just above the rim of commercial brass fired in the military chamber.