Re: Split necks, so far, so gooood
Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:33 pm
I want to anneal the necks of .20 VT I've made from Lapua and WW .223 brass. Is Todd Kindler's tip the only one like it on the market? It seems pricey......
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Re: Split necks, so far, so gooood
Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 8:28 pm
Out of three hundred new Winchester cases I found two with split necks out of the bag.They both had a dark line from top of rim down neck.I had one more new hull that felt too easy as I pushed in first bullet and that one was also cracked.It seems that a dark line would have to be done at factory during manufactor's anneling process.
Re: Split necks, so far, so gooood
Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 8:40 pm
i also have split necks right out of the bag (winchester) 
Re: Split necks, so far, so gooood
Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 4:57 am
Did you guys see the annealing wheel on 6mmBR. Pretty skick!!!!!!!!
http://www.zephyrdynamics.com/page3.html
http://www.zephyrdynamics.com/page3.html
Re: Split necks, so far, so gooood
Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 8:07 am
Hawkeye
The original Ken Light annealing machine is much nicer and cheaper to boot.
FWIW I use Skippers method. Cordless drill and a deep socket to act as a heatsink. Very fast method. Originally I dumped them into a bucket of water. After I reread Ken Lights article on 6mmbr I noticed his machine does not quench the brass after heating. Started dropping them into a cardboard box just like him. Seems to work fine as long as your not over annealing in the first place.
My Lapua 6.5X284 brass gets quenched. It needs alot more time in the flame and I'm not comfortable with the dry method. I want to make sure the heat in the neck is not convecting down to the case head. That would be a very bad thing (can you say KABOOM)
I've also tried a medium quench method. Put some rags in the bucket with just enough water to soak them but not immerse the brass. Sort of like a big wet sponge. It helps to quickly cool the brass but definately not as well as full immersion. No interior drying required though.
By the way, quenching does absolutely nothing for the annealing process but insure any heat transfer to the case head/lower body is stopped immediately.
The original Ken Light annealing machine is much nicer and cheaper to boot.
FWIW I use Skippers method. Cordless drill and a deep socket to act as a heatsink. Very fast method. Originally I dumped them into a bucket of water. After I reread Ken Lights article on 6mmbr I noticed his machine does not quench the brass after heating. Started dropping them into a cardboard box just like him. Seems to work fine as long as your not over annealing in the first place.
My Lapua 6.5X284 brass gets quenched. It needs alot more time in the flame and I'm not comfortable with the dry method. I want to make sure the heat in the neck is not convecting down to the case head. That would be a very bad thing (can you say KABOOM)
I've also tried a medium quench method. Put some rags in the bucket with just enough water to soak them but not immerse the brass. Sort of like a big wet sponge. It helps to quickly cool the brass but definately not as well as full immersion. No interior drying required though.
By the way, quenching does absolutely nothing for the annealing process but insure any heat transfer to the case head/lower body is stopped immediately.