Flash hole De-Burring

[greystone]

This might seem to be a stupid question but I'm gonna ask it anyhow. I use Remington cases and trim to a uniform length before de-burring the flash holes. I use the Sinclair tool and it came with no instructions whatsoever. I'm getting ready to prep some brand new brass and I'm wondering how you guys set the depth of the de-burring tool. I've removed the burr on the cases that I am currently shooting but I can still feel a little bump on the bottom when I turn the tool. I don't want to get the primer pocket too thin. What kind of technique do you guys use. Thanks. Dave

[skipper]

I chuck the tool in a cordless drill and set the depth when the tool stops vibrating. That's the sign that the tool is just cutting all the way around the inside flash hole. It will just simply stop vibrating completely.

[Rick in Oregon]

Not to hijack the post, but this is the exact reason I use the K&M tool, as case length has no bearing on cutting the flash hole, as the tool has a positive stop that bottoms out on the bottom of the case, cuting every flash hole exactly uniform case to case, regardless of case length. To me at least, it's a much better design.

It's fortunate we have so many choices in regard to all this tooling.

[Rich V.]

Greystone
Primer pockets should be cut to .118 to .122 for small rifle and .128 to .132 for large rifle. I use a .096 drill bit to uniform the flash hole. Deburr the inside of the flash hole just enough to remove the burr.

[BabaOriley]

Not to hijack the post, but this is the exact reason I use the K&M tool, as case length has no bearing on cutting the flash hole, as the tool has a positive stop that bottoms out on the bottom of the case, cuting every flash hole exactly uniform case to case, regardless of case length. To me at least, it's a much better design.

It's fortunate we have so many choices in regard to all this tooling.

I used the K&M 20cal tool on 1000 new Winchester .204 brass. I think it took me 3 or 4 sessions, as the tool is so small in my hand it made my fingers ache holding onto it. Maybe not even holding onto the wire nut end, but holding the case itself. I found I had to hold the case very tightly to keep it from spinning in my fingers if the flash hole had a major burr to cut through.

I think the only reason I worked through the pain was hearing you'd never have a reason to deburr them a second time, right?

[Rick in Oregon]

Baba: I should have mentioned this....take off the silly wire nut/handle, and chuck the tool up in a cordless drill. I wear a leather glove on my left hand to hold the case, and can do 100 cases easily in one sitting, takes about 1/2 hour to 45 minutes to do the entire batch.

I normally neck size first to ensure a nice round case mouth, then uniform the primer pocket, then deburr the flash hole with the K&M tool shank in the drill. No more tired, numb fingers.