tight cases.......

[cshooter]

I have just started to neck size only with a Lee collet sizer and noticed a few of my reloaded rounds have become hard to chamber. This is the second time for these cases to be neck sized only. My neck sized rounds do give a little better accuracy, especially out to 200 yards. Before that I full length resized all my cases, and just threw them away after the 5 -6th fireing to prevent problems. If I force the rounds that are'nt really tight into the chamber a few times, they do become much easier to chamber, but the real tight ones I can bearly close the bolt. I have been afraid to shoot the ones that really take alot of force to chamber that I may end up with a stuck case. Is there a risk of high pressure also ? Should I just neck size every other fireing ? I guess I'm Mr. Green again about this reloading stuff.

[scootertrash]

I tend to run my .204 at the upper window, and I F/L size the cases every other firing to prevent problems in the field.

Since replacing my barrel, I'm considering just getting a F/L die blank, and ream it to match the new chamber. I have a few rifles that have had custom dies machined, and the resizing even F/L, is so minimal that the brass is not overworked, nor is accuracy hindered in any way.

Most people believe that benchrest shooters only neck size. However, most do not, at least the ones I'm around. Most run their rifles up around 70,000 psi in say a 6PPC. This requires F/L sizing, but is done with a die that matches the chamber, thus no ill effects to the brass.

In your instance, it sounds like you may also need to shorten the interval between your F/L and neck only sizing. If you are just shooting varmints and rodents, they won't be able to tell the difference.

Mike

[ulen mn]

cshooter could it possibly be that for some reason your shoulders need to be bumped back a little ?? What is your load? What gun? Is the brass from the same lots? Maybe the ones that wont chamber corectly are thinner brass and streching more? I am MR. Green to hand loading too but I know that you are in the right place to find out whats going on in you process there are a bunch pretty smart fellows around here..

[Rick in Oregon]

cs: Our buddy scootertrash is spot-on as usual with his answer. Assuming you're shooting a factory rifle with a factory chamber, just consider bumping the shoulder back just a tad with your F/L die as soon as the same lot of cases start to show that resistence to the bolt closing with only a slight amount of resistence.

I neck size only for all my varmint/target rifles unless needing a shoulder bump occasionally, but when you feel the resistence you mention, just a bump of that particular lot of cases is needed to get things back on track.

There is not a pressure issue here, just the brass "growing" or stretching a bit from repeated firings.

[cshooter]

Rick, I am trying to think here, bumping the shoulders back a tad with a full length die, - won't that full length resize the case ? Or is there something I'm missing ? Do I need to take something out or change the setting on the F/L die to keep from looseing my chamber's dimentions on the fired case ?

[cshooter]

OOPS ! I guess I should have read Scootertrash's advise a little closer. Sorry. I guess you DO F/L the case in order to bump the shoulder's back a bit. There's really no way to run the case through a F/L die deep enough to touch the shoulder - without sizeing the neck fully and changeing the dimentions of the case. Oh Well, I'll just F/L every 2 - 3 fireings so things don't fit so tight, or someday invest in a custom chamber sizeing die for my Ruger. Anything else I should consider about this subject ? By the way, a custom die like that, where would a fella get one, how would he go about measureing his gun, and what would be the cost ? Oh, and one more question: When I bought my Lee Collet neck sizer die , it came with a seating die also. In the directions, they claimed that because their die seats the bullet the same depth all the time that they guarrentee the highest level of accuracy. My Forster/Bonanza 204 seater die moves the whole case up as the bullet is seated and seems to seat the same depth also. So what's the difference in the two dies. I've used both and can't seem to tell a difference in accuracy. But maybe my thin barreled sporter won't wring out that level of accuracy enyways, I don't know. Hmmm..... Thanks all...........

[jo191145]

cshooter

In an experiment totally unrelated to shoulder bumping I ground down the top of my shell holder on a sharpening stone.
A by product of doing that resulted in my Redding neck die now being able to bump back the shoulders without changing the body size.
I haven't had to FL size in years.
With my S series bushing die I can partially size the neck, bump the shoulders back .001 and never touch the body.
Accidents can be good

[Hawkeye Joe]

cshooter
I picked up a Forster BUMP Die when I had the same problem. My FL RCBS die just couldn't get the job done without overworking the brass. If you get a Forster Bump Die, You don't need the neck bushing if you just want to bump the shoulder back. It will also keep your shoulders uniform from case to case. I have one in 204,223,and 6.5/284. They're a "must have" in my reloading room.