SmallCaliberCentral

So as to reduce cost, I purchased a Leupold VX3 8.5x25x50 Varmint Hunter ret. with Warne Quick Detach steel rings. My first gun is a 6.5x47 Lapua 26in. target barrel and muzzle break, and a 20 MOA scope base. This was built on a Savage 110. My second gun is a AR-15 upper in a 6.5 Grendel ( from Alexander Arms ) with muz. break and a 20 MOA elevated riser mount. My third and last is an AR-15 upper .204 Ruger 24in. barrel and muz. break from White Oak with a 20 MOA elevated riser mount also. I want to switch my scope between all three guns. Has anyone done this? If so how did you set up a scope dope card. And in which order would you start and finish to zero at 300 yds. Can anyone help.

Great idea,and practical,if you can get it to work for you.I have a set of Warne QD 30mm rings mounted on a Ruger #1 varmit,and I have had it off twice.Both times,the scope neede o be readjusted for POI.On yours,the rail spacing will need to be identicle,for starters,then it will be time spent shooting without changing the scope settings,from the one gun you want to shoot the most.Measure the groups (displaced) from the base group and make your scope adjustment card from that info.Helps if you have ,return to zero turrets on the scope.My Vx 3 LR doesn't.

I suspect the only way you could make it work is to use an extremely precise bore-sight tool and keep a record of the exact setting for zero for the scope on each upper. I've got an old optical bore-sighter that attaches with a rod in the bore and a newer optical bore-sighter that magnetically attaches to the muzzle. The best I can do with either when mounting a new scope on an existing gun or upper is to get within a couple of inches of zero at 100 yards. That might work for you if you don't mind re-zeroing at the rifle range with every change and don't expect to be swapping the scope back and forth every other week.

Otherwise, you'd probably need to get a laser bore-sighter that fits snugly in each chamber, then use it to chart where the beam points points relative to where the zero'd scope looks on each upper. Then you could plan on using a known 100 yd distance at twilight in order to adjust the scope to dead on with each change. I suppose you could do that at home, but it might freak out the neighbors--at least those who would recognize the laser beam for what it is. Of course, if you are shooting varying loads through each upper, your task when changing would multiply accordingly.

While you could go this route I think that you will find that it's more hassle than it's worth. I'd save up for a couple of scopes. Gary

Has anyone used the Leupold bore sighter system. They say that after you zero at a given range. You place the sighter on the end of the bore, and look through the scope. Than transfer to a card where the zero is. Use a differunt card for each rifle, making scope changes for each card/range. A'm I correct? and has anyone done this? Yes I wish I had the money to buy two more scopes.

rdelung wrote:Has anyone used the Leupold bore sighter system. They say that after you zero at a given range. You place the sighter on the end of the bore, and look through the scope. Than transfer to a card where the zero is. Use a differunt card for each rifle, making scope changes for each card/range. A'm I correct? and has anyone done this? Yes I wish I had the money to buy two more scopes.

The magnetic/optical bore sighter mentioned in my above post is indeed a Leupold. As mentioned, it gets me close to the actual zero for a given load, but eight times out of ten it will be an inch or two off. That's not precise enough that I would take a gun out for prairie dogs without shooting it on paper first. Of course, that may be due to my own lack of precision, so your mileage may vary. Regardless, the Leupold boresighter is a useful tool to have.

After much thought. I have considered getting dedacated scope for my 6.5x47 Lapua. I'm looking at the Konus M30 7281 6.5x25x44mm scope. Can anyone give me some information neg. or pos. about this scope, or any suggestions. I like what the scope is supposed to do, and the price is interesting also. Thanks, R.Delung

No info on that one.

But I DO know about these:

http://www.muelleroptics.com/

http://www.chuckhawks.com/mueller_erati ... 50_syn.htm



You could buy Three of these for the price of one Nikon Monarch or High dollar Leupold

I love my 4-16x50 Mueller Sport Dot! I have compared it side by side with my son's Nikon Monarch 4-16x50, and it is just as clear and bright, IMO.

I have a Mueller Varminator, 8.5-25x50 on my 223. Crystal clear, awsome. My debate isn't what scope to put on my 204, it is which Mueller to put on my 204.