SmallCaliberCentral

I have purchased a New Savage in 204 Ruger. I have to return it for Warranty work .
What has been your experiance in sending a rifle back to Savage for Warranty work. Problems corrected 1st time?.
Iam guessing it will be 3-4 weeks before i get the Rifle back errrr, did i mention this is a new new rifle? I really wanted to get a Scope on it and see what it could do? This is my first Savage & first 204 ruger.

Just going to have to Wait now!

Foxguy

I had a similar situation with a new Savage i purchased a couple years ago. They corrected the problem and had the rifle back to me in a few weeks. Savage has good customer service and seems to have a genuine desire to keep customers happy. I was able to speak with Joe Degrandy (he is in charge of the service dept) and received excellent customer service as well as great communication. I would encourage you to call and ask for Joe if you have any questions, he will make sure everything is fixed to your satisfaction.

Brad

wirelessguy,

Does Savage keep you informed ,That the have recieved the Rifle?, They will be looking at it in a Few days?, Repairs have been made & will be going to Shipping for Shipment type of Information?

Thanks for sharing with a new fellow Savage Owner.

Foxguy

I don't recall them providing me step by step updates, however they were always happy to update me when i called.

204foxguy wrote:wirelessguy,

Does Savage keep you informed ,That the have recieved the Rifle?, They will be looking at it in a Few days?, Repairs have been made & will be going to Shipping for Shipment type of Information?

Thanks for sharing with a new fellow Savage Owner.

Foxguy

I sent a savage back for warranty work earlier this year. They corrected the issue and I had the gun back in about three weeks. They made the process easy and painless and it was fixed right. The issue I had should never have happened in the first place, but the rectified the problem by doing a complete rebarrel.

Fox Guy, may I ask what the problem is that you are sending it back in for???

dannybracy wrote:Fox Guy, may I ask what the problem is that you are sending it back in for???

Thats a good question.

Theres not much on a Savage that can't be fixed at home with a dremel and a hammer
Seriously, The reason I build fun rifles on Savage actions is it can all be done in minutes at home with simple tools.

Dannybracy,

The Barrel was touching on the left side at the end of the forearm. This model was supose to be free floated all the way.
not sure if Barrel was in croocked or if it was a stock issue.

What model? How is the rifle shooting?? Can you still slide a piece of paper by it? I have a LRPV, but I bought a Savage 12FV for a backup gun and I put it in a Boyds Laminant stock. So I had to open up the barrel channel myself to get it to fit in the stock. I took a fine tip Sharpie pen and marked the action screws and continued the mark onto the bottom fingerguard metal. I did this so I would have a reference point when tightening the action screws back down(i did this even though I have an inch pounds torque wrench). Then you take a piece of dowel, or an old broken broom handle and take a piece of duct tape and fold it over on to itself so it is basically double sided tape. Tape a piece of sandpaper to the dowel and just sand down the barrel channel in that spot that it is touching until it is floated. While you have the barreled action out of the stock take some lighter fluid and clean all of that nasty black grease sh*t that Savage loves to put all over their triggers. Use a Q-TIP and be gentle. Then just put the barreled action back into the stock and SHAZAM. You just fixed your rifle! Now go shoot.

The Barrel was touching on the left side at the end of the forearm. This model was supose to be free floated all the way.
not sure if Barrel was in croocked or if it was a stock issue.

thats all????????

Foxguy - I Had the same issue with my Ruger.
Told Chasepaugh about this on a recent thread. I just took the stock off, shaved a little off the area it was touching. I scraped it with a pocket knife (synthetic) - sandpaper would be less brutal and I wouldn't take to a timber stock with a knife.
Made a big difference to the rifle's consistency.
Being a brand new rifle though, not sure how this may affect your warranty.

Jo2009

The Savage i purchased was the Savage Model 12 LRPV ruger 204 . Savage Advertising is saying that this is a tack driveing LRPV rife, It is a Single Shot, Left Port. I was under the opinion that this rifle woud reflect that in its quality of workmanship. With the barrel touching the stock @ the end of the foreard there was no way it would shoot anything consistantly. This rifle comes in an H-S Precision Varmint stock that has an aluminum bedding block, is should of been Straight. I wasnt sure if it was a bad stock or if the Barrel had been put on the rifle croocked. This was the first savage i had ever purchased, thought it should of been right. Called savage and they agreeded the had it picked up by UPS and they currently have it for repair.

As this is my first savage, how hard is it to remove the barrel. is it threaded on, head space set & then the barrel nut tightened?
All i know(have heard by several shooterers from the rifle club) the savage model 12 shoots very well.

Still anticipating getting it back, getting a scope on it and going out to shoot it. I have loaded up several different loads to try.....Ah the fun of havin & shooting a new rifle.!

Foxguy

Sometimes the barrel nut can be a bear to remove the first time around. I modified my barrel vise into an action vise and have no problems removing a factory installed barrel nut now. I use a Wheeler nut wrench. I love the Savage for the ease of barrel changes. Their inherent accuracy is a boon too.

Installing a new barrel, I thread the barrel on AFTER installing the barrel nut FIRST and then the recoil lug. I routinely replace the factory stamped lug with a machined lug I buy from Brownell's web site. The factory lug can be off on thickness as much as .009" from one side to another. Once the barrel is screwed on about half way, I insert the GO gauge and screw the barrel in until it touched the gauge. I then tighten the barrel nut and the job is done. When I tighten the barrel nut, I'll give the nut wrench a rap with a rubber mallet to be sure it's tight enough. Some people use a torque wrench and tighten to about 30 ft/lbs.

If I don't have a NO GO gauge, I'll put a piece of "Scotch" tape on the base of the GO gauge and reinsert that. The bolt usually closes about 1/2" and stops letting me know the headspace is good to go. The "Scotch" brand tape measures about .002" in thickness.

Tom

GaCop wrote:Sometimes the barrel nut can be a bear to remove the first time around. I modified my barrel vise into an action vise and have no problems removing a factory installed barrel nut now. I use a Wheeler nut wrench. I love the Savage for the ease of barrel changes. Their inherent accuracy is a boon too.

Installing a new barrel, I thread the barrel on AFTER installing the barrel nut FIRST and then the recoil lug. I routinely replace the factory stamped lug with a machined lug I buy from Brownell's web site. The factory lug can be off on thickness as much as .009" from one side to another. Once the barrel is screwed on about half way, I insert the GO gauge and screw the barrel in until it touched the gauge. I then tighten the barrel nut and the job is done. When I tighten the barrel nut, I'll give the nut wrench a rap with a rubber mallet to be sure it's tight enough. Some people use a torque wrench and tighten to about 30 ft/lbs.

If I don't have a NO GO gauge, I'll put a piece of "Scotch" tape on the base of the GO gauge and reinsert that. The bolt usually closes about 1/2" and stops letting me know the headspace is good to go. The "Scotch" brand tape measures about .002" in thickness.

Tom

Thanks GaCop,

I will probally get Brave in a year or two and start doing barrels on the Savage.
If it copper fouls to much i will probally get it done sooner that later.

I really appreciate all the helpful information on this site.

It is a common problem for the H&S Precision stocks. I have two of them and the .204 hit hard and the 6mmBR was real close. Fiberglass sands fairly easy. It was not worth my time to return.