SmallCaliberCentral

I'm new to this site but love what i've seen of it. I was hoping that I could get some help here. I've been having trouble getting better than and inch and a quarter groups with my AR-15 in .204. I've got a 24in heavy barrel with a Leopold 4.5-14X50 scope. I'm beginning to think maybe my brass is a bad batch. I've got hornady once fired brass that I am trying to use from their 40gr factory load. I've noticed that some of the primer pockets are looser than others. I'm also concerned about bullet run-out but not sure how to curb that. I'm somewhat new to reloading, but I've had great success loading for .243 and 7MM. Here is my reloading process.

Clean brass
Resize brass
Chamfer, deburr, and clean primer pockets
prime with Rem 7.5
charge cases
seat bullet with no crimp

I've been using 27.4 of H4895 as this seemed to be better. I measure each powder charge and check each cartridge for overall length. I've been seating them at 2.250 and using the 40 gr VMAX. I shoot a 1:12 twist barrel. I cannot seat my bullet much further out because it will not fit in the magazine. I might be able to hit 2.260. Is my barrel twist to slow? Not sure what I'm doing wrong so help me out folks. What should I change?

your load is darn close to mine,27.3gr h-4895,wsrp,2.267 col,,,out of my savage model 25,
204ruger,,,,wich I believe is the same barrel dimensions as your's,,and I get great results,,,now I do measure concentricity,and anything over 4thou is used for foulers or close range,,,,what type of runout are you getting ???

I do not have a gauge to determine runout. I'd like to buy one. Any recommendations? I did load 12 rounds in Nosler brass but have not had the chance to fire them yet. I still am not sure runout is the problem but it could be. How would I fix runout in the loading process. I turn my load a half turn while I seat the bullet as I have heard this may help.

Another question...........do I need to chamfer my cases everytime I resize my brass or just when I trim them?

ryutzy wrote:Another question...........do I need to chamfer my cases everytime I resize my brass or just when I trim them?

Only after a trim.

I would give Sierra BK 39gr a try, my 204 hates V-max 40gr.

As regarding run-out, I have always rotated the case 3 times during the reloading process and although I don't have an instument to measure the run-out, they always look good on the roll test.

Try the Sie 39BK and seat to 2.350,load single shot,shoot three 5 shot groups.Also seat out to max of what the magazine will allow,and shoot additional groups.

Hey thanks guys, I'll give your suggestions a try and see what I can come up with. I'll buy the 39BKs and try those. I dont really want to go to a lighter bullet if I dont have to because I use this load for coyotes and am not sure the 32s will be sufficient for 300+ yrd shots.

I am using the Hornady custom dies and they are supposed to align the bullet properly as they are seated. I know this is not a total cure for runout though. Does anyone have an opinion about these dies?

I bought a set of the Hornady dies a while back..........didn't care for them. REALLY worked the necks too much. I've since bought a set of Redding bushing dies, and they work much better. I've also had better luck with Blitzkings than v-max in my guns.

#1, do you have free-floating handquards?

I shoot strictly 32-grainers but I have seen a lot of accounts from guys with 1:12 barrels that the 40-grainer was iffy. As noted above, many of them suggest trying the 39-gr SBK.

As for runout, the cheapest, least fuss way to deal with it is to use a Lee collet neck sizing die. It's much less labor than neck turning but gives almost all the benefits (concentricity and neck wall thickness). Just be aware your body lengths will continue to grow and you'll occasionally have to bump the shoulder or FLS.

As for seating depth, I'd always believed the story (I'll stop short of calling it a 'myth') that less jump = more accuracy so I start everything seating to max magazine length. But once I have my charge dialed in (through the optimum charge weight process), I tweak seating depth. I have yet to come across a rifle that is most accurate at that extreme length. So far, everything has shot more consistently with a little more jump.

Ok I may have to try the Redding bushing dies. I use Redding for my .243 and I like them.

As for the Lee collet neck sizing die, I thought for a semi-auto I needed to full length size each time and not just neck size. Will my gun cycle correctly if I just neck size occasionally?

Yes I do have the freefloating handguard.

Since I do not yet have a concentricity tool, If I do the "roll test" on a table will I be able to identify .004 runout?

Most loaders that would have a concentricity gage are turning the necks on all the brass.The Hornady seating die aligns the bullet and case mouth before the bullet is inserted.The competition dies from Redding have a window to place the bullet,with exellent alignment.I use a Vickerman,the original window bullet seater.Makes handling the tiny 20 cal bullets a pleasure.

ryutzy wrote:...As for the Lee collet neck sizing die, I thought for a semi-auto I needed to full length size each time and not just neck size....

My bad, your right ...but I wonder if you couldn't neck size with the Lee collet die, then body size every time and accomplish the same thing. The body die works the same as a FLS die except it doesn't mess with the case from the neck up. It gives you one extra step (not a big deal if you have a progressive reloader) but even two steps at the press is less work than neck turning.

Ok thanks guys, I'm deciding between Redding and Lee dies and hopefully that will reduce my runout problem. I'm having trouble finding a Lee die set that has a FLS and the collet neck sizer. I'm finding that I need to buy two die sets to get what I want, then I'll have two seating dies. The Redding seating die sounds nice but a lil pricey.

Yes, they are pricey, but worth it. My first set for the .204 was Hornady and they were okay. Wanted to start maximizing accuracy and got the Redding Type-S FL Competition set. My brass gets the full treatment now and it has made a measurable difference. The only other suggestion I would offer is to concentrate on one step at a time. Progressive presses are for quantity, not quality (JMHO).

No I dont have a progressive press. What is the difference between the Type S dies and the regular competition dies? I noticed the type S were cheaper. Any insight on bushings?