SmallCaliberCentral

I have found a new ruger no. 1 in 204 for $699. The only problem is the fact that it is a standard with the thinner barrel. Are these generally accurate.

that is what I have but I put a different stock on it--- had one made for it--- there is a pic says here is my gun --

Are you pleased with it and what type of scope?

Come on guys help me out. I'm new here and I really want a no.1 in 204 and I know nothing about scopes.

i just put a nikon monarch 5.5x16.5x 44 on it an have not shot it yet-- soon though-- i like the gun it use to be my dads then he upgraded to a pac nor barrel an a sekio action an having a stock made for it-- it shoots good from what my dad says an he has alot of nice guns-- all custom done---it really depends on what you want to do with the gun-- this one is just go be for the long range coytoes an some dogs-- maybe the neighbors cat lol jk----

Griz,
Some people have issues with the Ruger No.1's. The foregrip can put odd pressure on the barrel so one way to "fix" that is to either install a Hicks accurizer or look-up how to make your own foregrip adjustment screw. Many people however state that they just buy it and shoot it. Mine is a heavy barrel "V" version in 22-250 and I will keep her for the rest of my life.
Gary

Dunno if this helps, but as fas as the thin barrels go, they can shoot just as good as the heavy barrels, all things being equal. If you're doing a lot of shooting, say out on a open field at sage rats, the barrel will heat quicker, but if this not the case I wouldn't be concerned. Accordingly, the faster it heats, the faster it cools off too.

Jim

I have a R#1b in .204.

Had gunsmith install after market trigger and Hicks Device. From dead loose but touching I screwed the hick's device in 1.5 turns. It now is among the most accurate rifles I have, including a custom 700 with a Lilja barrel on it.

I won't comment on the scope as the Loopie types don't like me to. However, based on the performance I'm getting I would recommend a 14x to 16x variable for squirrels, and with a fine reticle. Mil Dots are definitely out, but some type of fine MOA or MIL scale is what I use. For varmint hunting, a lit reticle is not really that valuable. Spend the money on a good hat!

Getting back to the rifle, what I really like about the R#1 is that I find the aesthetics really pleasing and the thing is very pleasant to shoot from a bench when compared to a bolt action. The old boys really knew what they were doing.

The 1-A and 1-B have 26" barrels while the 1-V has a heavier 24" barrel. These 26" barrels with factory .204 ammo is the hammer from hades. If you don't believe me put a varmint simulator (20oz plastic bottle filled with colored water.) out at 50yds and observe the effect. Talk about shock and awe!

Then you can take it down to the local gun butcher and have him do a little work on it:





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For those of you interested, I once caught heck from the USO president for not using the right format for variable scope description. Proper form is low - high x objective as in 10-39x80 or 1.8-10x39

Thanks for the info. I have always wanted a no. 1 based mainly on the aesthetics. I'm not looking forward to tweak it to get it to shoot because I don't know a local gunsmith. Most of my shooting will be plinking and shooting old fruit such as oranges. I wish I could get a 204 with iron sights because I don't like scopes.

GIZ,

Save some money and get a 22LR with iron sights.

Giz:

I have had two Ruger No 1s. The first was a 1-V in 22-250, and it was made in 1976. It would not shoot under about 1.5 MOA even though I tried to work up a good handload for it. This may have been the period of time that Ruger had an issue with bad barrels.

The second one was the 1-B Standard in .204 and walnut stock. I tried a number of different factory loadings, and it would not consistently shoot better than about 1.25 MOA or so. I expected better from it, and I also tried to tinker with the forearm tension, etc., but to little avail.

I like the styling of the No. 1. However, these experiences lead me to believe that they are temperamental, and inconsistent. Some shooters know how to make them shoot, and when they do, I have heard they are very good. But having a rifle that seems inconsistent and temperamental is not my style. When I pull the trigger and miss, I want to know that most likely it was me, and not the rifle. How else can you really try to improve your shooting skills?

Also, even though single shots appeal to me in some ways, I strongly prefer a repeater.

stevecrea wrote:Giz:

I have had two Ruger No 1s. The first was a 1-V in 22-250, and it was made in 1976. It would not shoot under about 1.5 MOA even though I tried to work up a good hand load for it. This may have been the period of time that Ruger had an issue with bad barrels.

The second one was the 1-B Standard in .204 and walnut stock. I tried a number of different factory loadings, and it would not consistently shoot better than about 1.25 MOA or so. I expected better from it, and I also tried to tinker with the forearm tension, etc., but to little avail.

I had heard the same thing and my purchase of the 1B was really a gamble. I had however heard good things about aftermarket trigger and the Hicks device, so I didn't hesitate and took it immediately on purchase to the Rifle smith, who questioned my sanity. He did however do an excellent job and now it shoots as good as my custom bolt gun (3 rounds touching at 100 yards.)

Some say I got lucky with the barrel. Perhaps. I currently have about $1700 in the rifle, not counting the scope. This is about half the price of custom bolt repeater with McMillan stock and lilja barrel.

Don't know what the best course of action is, but you need more than one varmint rifle and nobody has enough money to buy my R#1b.
My honest recommendation:

.204 M700 with trigger job and free floated wood stock. Spend the difference on 14 to 16 power top of the line Leupold. I use another brand but for workman like rifle LEUPOLD. My experience indicates that locking knobs are a desirable option.