SmallCaliberCentral

Do any of you lads use stainless bore brushes? Just a curiosity, as bronze dont seem to last long, especially if you use CR-10 with them. Any thoughts out there?

I use CLP Break Free when I brush. It won't eat your bronze brush like other solvents do.

CLP Break Free??? Never heard of it, is a copper solvent?

FireBallGuy wrote:CLP Break Free??? Never heard of it, is a copper solvent?

I use Break Free products too. The Break Free stuff I have at home right now is the Powder Blast and the CLP cleaner and lubricant. I use the Powder Blast on my brushes. I don't think either one can be considered a copper solvent-at least neither can makes any such claim. For copper there are other products. I get Break Free at either my gun dealer or the local Wally Mart. Dave

CLP stands for Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative. It is made by Sentinel Canada in Montreal. The bottle states: Cleans: Loosens dirt and corrosion. Displaces trapped soil.
Preserves: Provides a long lasting protective coating that shields all metals from rust and corrosion.
Lubricates: Contains unique additives to lubricate the working parts. Reduces friction and wear. Works in extreme cold.

There is nothing mentioning an ability to dissolve copper.

Cheers

Being it is made up here should have no problem finding it then!?! Apparently the new 204 I bought earlier this week developed a copper issue so after about 2 hours of brushing and CR-10 and 1 less bore brush the darn thing is finally clean. Generally my cleaning ritual is such: Wet out the bore with hoppes #9 powder solvent, wait a few minutes. Brush the bore with cleen bore copper cutter, wait a few. Wet patches (2or3) more of the cleen bore stuff. 2 or 3 patches using CR-10 until clean. One last patch of hoppes to stop the barnes from working and patch it dry. This has worked real well for me in the past but when I went to the range yesterday apparently I left all my 20 cal jags and stuff at home so I had to do only a half arse job, thus the mess today. At any rate. how well does this stuff work anyway? Always looking to try new cleaning stuff if it may make my life easier. Thanks guys.

By the way cadeuses, how's that model 7 predator workin' out for you? I ended up getting rid of mine after about 300 rounds the bloody thing still was not shooting like I had hoped and spending more money on the gun to fix the problems was not an option. Hope yours is better, good luck.

FireBallGuy wrote:By the way cadeuses, how's that model 7 predator workin' out for you? I ended up getting rid of mine after about 300 rounds the bloody thing still was not shooting like I had hoped and spending more money on the gun to fix the problems was not an option. Hope yours is better, good luck.

I just finished shooting a ladder load with 32 gr Blitz Kings on Sunday. I could cover five shots at 100 yrds with a quarter using H4895 with 26.2 gr WSR Primer hunkered in at 2.280 COL. This weekend I do it all again using Benchmark. Cheers.

Good for you, did you do any work to the gun? I have a whack of 32 grainers (Bkings and Vmax's) over benchmark ready to go. Now that the gun is clean and I will have all the RIGHT cleaning stuff with me, all should be well again at the next range session. So how well does this CLP stuff work anyway? Good luck with your reload work, I think now that I must also try H4895 in mine.

Break Free is basically a light oil. I started using it to clean the bolt carrier on my AR. When I saw how well it cleaned that, I started to use it to brush. My bore scope findings say it works well.

Superb!!! So start with CLP, use a copper cutter (if needed) and finish with CLP? Sounds too easy.

Fireball: After years and years of dinking around with about everything available out there to properly clean a rifle barrel after extended shooting sessions, this is what works for me:

Shooters Choice Solvent 60% mixed with Kroil 40% for the carbon fouling using patches and a bronze brush. (A tip offered to me by a seasoned BR shooter)

Barnes CR-10 with patches and a nylon brush for the copper. The barrel is really clean after a proper workout with this combination. Never use a bronze brush with CR-10 or Sweets, as they'll literally eat the brush before you're done cleaning. After cleaning the barrel, you need to neutralize the chemicals using either Shooters Choice again on a wet patch, or alcohol, which is what I now use for both naked bullet barrels, and for WS2 barrels. This should be done no matter what chemicals you use to clean a barrel.

I also use BreakFree, primarily for the bore when putting the gun away after cleaning, and for protecting the surface finish of blued guns. It came out back in the 70's as a substitute to LSA Weapons Oil, and was issued troops in RVN and was the standard for cleaning the M16 for a very long time after until sand/dust resistant lubricants arrived for the new fracas in the Middle East.

I should also add that a note usually comes with every custom barrel I've purchased, both chrome moly and stainless that usually reads: "Never, ever use a stainless steel bore brush in your barrel." This is from Lilja, Shilen, Hart, Pac-Nor, Douglas, and Krieger. 'Nuff said on that?

Dewey makes a "No Harm" brush that works well. The wire is looped on the end instead of being cut off. Buy them by the dozen. Brushes don't stay tight for long.

I start with Butch's Bore Shine on patches. Then Gunslick foaming bore cleaner, And finish off with CLP Break Free on a brush.

Gotcha, NO STAINLESS!!! Pardon my ignorance but what is kroil? I have heard of this mixture with shooters choice bore cleaner, must be good. Shot the 204 again today and it was better but within a very short time, it was all coppered up again. What does a guy do to help this problem along?