SmallCaliberCentral

Have dealt with three 700's where the sear engagement screw could not be turned. Got the other 2 turned and have a good combination accuracy + hunting trigger. If I need / am brave enough to mess with the sear screw, what will DEFINITELY break it loose so a jeweler's screwdriver can turn it. I've got enough chemicals on the shelf already. Fingernail polish and most lubricants won't work.

How are the screws held in place??? Maybe loctite?? If so, a little heat will do the trick.

ops: I'm a real gun tinkerer, and have adjusted or worked on about every brand of trigger out there. That said, the one thing I rarely, if ever dink with, is the sear engagement screw set by the factory. It is usually set and sealed for a reason, but if you must adjust it, use a Q-Tip soaked in lacquer thinner, dob it on the screw, let it sit for about 30 seconds, and it will turn the sealant to mush and allow you to adjust the sear engagement.

If you do adjust the sear, you'll want to run a series of tests to see if you've got enough engagement to prevent an AD. Once done, slam the bolt home a few times with the rifle cocked. Also forcefully bump the recoil pad on the rug in the house hard to see if she lets go. If either of these tests result in the striker falling, you need more sear engagement.

Too little sear engagement can also break off the tip of the sear, as not enough purchase will break it or cause undue wear over time. This is one area you really must be careful, and if you have not done this before and really feel you need to adjust the sear, you may want to have your smith do it for you. If you are experienced in this area, I apologize for the ramble.

The one thing nobody here wants, is for any of us to have an AD! (Accidental Discharge)

I should have said fingernail polish REMOVER. Anyway, I wouldn't think of changing the sear but I've got pull down to 4-6 pounds (depending on how much a 230gr 45auto cartridge weighs(2/3-1 oz). 95 of them in a plastic bag hung on the trigger will trip it. That was just for curiosity's sake. But if i go any lighter on the pull weight then I begin to get creep. Besides, you can't turn the pull weight screw out anymore because the wood at the front of the trigger guard won't allow it. I've done just a little knife scraping already. It breaks like glass but creep will enter into the picture with any lighter pull. Am not even sure if sear adjustment would contribute to compensating for creep. I know what will work now though. Thanks. Oh, I got the directions from snipercountry address somebody had posted here, very helpful.

Or you can get a Jewell for $165.00, bolt it in yourself in 2 minutes and have a great trigger and never be sorry about the $165.00.

Yeah, what he said! ^^^^^

Yeah, what they both said. But even if you install a sweet trigger like a Jewell, you'll still want to perform the "no AD" tests described above.

Most definitely what he said... ^^^^^

Testing any trigger modification as so well delineated by Rick is mandatory.

Rick in Oregon wrote:ops: I'm a real gun tinkerer, and have adjusted or worked on about every brand of trigger out there. That said, the one thing I rarely, if ever dink with, is the sear engagement screw set by the factory. It is usually set and sealed for a reason, but if you must adjust it, use a Q-Tip soaked in lacquer thinner, dob it on the screw, let it sit for about 30 seconds, and it will turn the sealant to mush and allow you to adjust the sear engagement.

If you do adjust the sear, you'll want to run a series of tests to see if you've got enough engagement to prevent an AD. Once done, slam the bolt home a few times with the rifle cocked. Also forcefully bump the recoil pad on the rug in the house hard to see if she lets go. If either of these tests result in the striker falling, you need more sear engagement.

Too little sear engagement can also break off the tip of the sear, as not enough purchase will break it or cause undue wear over time. This is one area you really must be careful, and if you have not done this before and really feel you need to adjust the sear, you may want to have your smith do it for you. If you are experienced in this area, I apologize for the ramble.

The one thing nobody here wants, is for any of us to have an AD! (Accidental Discharge)

Rick,

Randy tried to get the sear screw loose on my 700 with no luck. I used brake cleaner to get the other screws loose, but the sear will not budge. Do they use a different sealer or loctite on the sear? The only alternative is heat, but I don't think a guy can heat it without risk.

Trigger breaks like glass, but has an unpredictable and seemingly variable free travel. Against my nature (I like to spend$$$) I'd like to fix as is, but if I have to, maybe I'll try a Jewell. I'll see how it shoots first...

Recently my Rem 700 22-250 action fell off my bench and the trigger broke off. So I took it to my local gunsmith and he happen to have a new Timney trigger. He set it for me and it now breaks at 3 1/2# just right for me. He dabbed a little clear nail polish like stuff on the screw heads to secure them.

I just tuned up an older style 700 trigger. I was able to get the gunk off all three screws with acetone. I found that my sear screw would turn VERY easily once the junk was off, so much so that when I was adjusting the pull weight, the sear screw would move around without me touching it. If your screw is as loose as mine, some of that "glue" may have really gotten down in the threads. I would suggest soaking the whole trigger unit in acetone overnight (I'm assuming the trigger has been removed from your rifle). If that doesn't work, then I would try methylene chloride as a solvent.

I bought the Holland trigger spring kit ($10), and that turned out to be the key for a really nice pull weight. The stock spring on the Rem trigger is really too short and stiff to allow a 2 lb pull (IMO) and still be safe.

If all these things don't work, I would buy a Jewell trigger. I have one on my 700 (.204) set at 8 oz, and its fabulous.

Thanks I'll try that. I'm planning to set up my BR Pivot and see if it shoots decent first.

Sun is out, winds are 2mph gusting to 4mph and it's a whopping -11°f right now...

No go on my end with the screw. I soaked in thinner, applied more heat than I should have and nothing. It shoots good anyhow...

methal ethel keytone is one of the stongest thinners i have used
it will blister epoxy based paints that brake cleaner wont touch