Free Float Barrel

[ymmit]

I picked up a new 204 remington 204 vls. In checking the barrel, it is not free floating. I was just wondering before I got the sand paper out if it should be free floated? There seems to be a factory hump above the sling mount. Could anyone advise me on this?
Thank You

[Rick in Oregon]

ymmit: There is lots of info on the net and elsewhere, but a capsulized version is:
* Free float the barrel so a dollar bill will pass the entire length of the forearm.
* Glass bed the recoil lug, tang, and about 2" of barrel under the chamber area for proper
barrel support.
* When bedding recoil lug, make sure the only contact area is on the rear of the lug, use
two layers of tape so that the bottom, front and sides of the lug do NOT touch the
bedding.
* Seal the inside of the barrel channel to prevent moisture warping.
* For bedding material, I recommend Brownell's Accra-Glass Gel, used it for many years with
excellent results.

This is not hard to do, but requires attention to detail. Follow the instructions on the Accra-Glass, and after it's done, you'll be amazed at the difference at the target. The next rifle you do will be even easier.

[Sagebrush Burns]

Not to disagree, but might as well shoot it first - it might shoot good as is...

[Rick in Oregon]

ymmit: Sagebrush is right. I assumed you'd shoot it first to obtain a benchmark prior to tearing it down for bedding work. Always good to know if you really "improved" it or not....

[Glen]

There seems to be a factory hump above the sling mount.

This concerns me a little bit. I'm wondering if the sling stud is screwed in too far & is pushing the wood up & a little but hasn't broken thru yet. If so the stud needs to coma out & have about 3/32" ground off the end & re-installed.

Otherwise you've been given very good advice already.

[gwglave]

ymmit,
Welcome to the forum. You will find a wealth of information here. As for the Rem 700 VLS, I have one in .204 which I have been shooting for two years. Yes, they come from the factory with the small "hump" of wood you are referring to. All the previous posters have given you good information. I would definitely shoot it first before I did anything to it. I had to put approximately 150 rounds through mine before it really started to shine. Now it will shoot in the .2's and .3's when I do my part.
In a classic do as I say, not as I do....... I did free float the barrel on mine before I shot it. I have never had a Remington that shot well with any fore-end pressure. But, there are always exceptions. Generally, I do exactly as Rick in Oregon outlined especially if you have a walnut stock. Laminated wood stocks tend to be more stable and "usually" do not move as much as walnut. So, the only things I have done to my VLS is float the barrel, reseal barrel channel, replaced the factory trigger with a Timney and shot it. I can truly say the critters hate it .

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Rgds, Gerry

[ymmit]

Thanks for all of your advice! Just to let you all know you do a great job here, I don't post much but I read alot!! Thanks again, Tim

[tuck2]

It takes a 1/16 inch allen wrench to adjust the new Remington X Mark Pro Trigger pull. Out of the box my Rem Mdl 700 CDL SF had a five pound trigger pull. I turnd out the trigger pull adjustment screw untill the pull was at 2 3/4 pounds. DO NOT MESS WITH THE SCREW IN THE BACK OF THE TRIGGER , it adjust the sear. Better yet have a gunsmith do the trigger pull adjustment. I too have removed the barrel pressure pad in the forearm of the stock while free floating the barrels . The Remington rifles I have had have shot smaller groups after free floating the barrel, glass bedding the action w/about 2 inches of the barrel, and adjusting the trigger. Two rifles were also improved by having a gunsmith lapp the bolt locking lugs ,only one of the two luggs showed any wear.