SmallCaliberCentral

I don't know about you guys, but I HATE the brushing process.Cleaning 2-3 guns a week is taking it's toll It's not the pushing it through,It's unscrewing it a dozen full turns. Then screwing it back on every pass Are ALL those threads necessary to push it through the barrel one way without short-stroking . I turned all but 2 threads down to the root so it just barely slips in the cleaning rod. 2 turns and it's locked. I'm working on a better system that requires no modifiaction to the brush. I'll keep ya posted

Mike: In my opinion, you're making it much harder than it needs to be. No problem with having the brass brush exit the muzzle, carefully drawing it back in the bore, and make the return trip for more solvent or another few passes.

On the other hand, PATCHES should only make a one-way trip, out the muzzle and off the rod. Wipe the rod every time it comes out the bore with a paper towel or rag to keep suspended grit and crap off it, and you will clean faster with no worry to the bore interior.

Taking off the brush every time it exists the muzzle is just not necessary.

From a totally smart alleck point of view...there is usually a lot of screwing goin' on when you are cleaning the barrel.

I thought pulling it back through was a no no Or is this another one of them argument things. Dam Ford guys

I don't like the idea of the brush being pulled back across the crown. It may just be one of those things that doesn't really matter, but in my mind I can just picture the bristles bending across the razor sharp edge of the crown and causing damage. Just think of pulling your razor blade across a bore brush. It's going to dull. I unscrew the brush before pulling the rod back regardless of the inconvenience.

This is one of those discussions that has arguments for both sides on some websites. I'm not saying there is any scientific merit to my point of view, but I just would rather be safe than sorry.

20-250ai wrote:

I had a feeling that was going to happen.

Let me just bow out of this thread. I respect Rick's opinion. The advice he has given in the past has earned him that respect. My concern was just that, over time, the brush might prematurely wear the crown. Considering the time it took me to get my rifle all together, I wouldn't want to have to wait for another six to nine months getting it recrowned.

Skip: I respect your opinion too, and you have a valid concern about wear over time. One only needs look at rocks in a river bed to illustrate this wear effect. All my custom barrels have what some would call a "custom crown". Meaning that the muzzle usually has either a "floorboard" crown, or a "dual crown".

With a dual crown, the muzzle has an 11 degree bevel to the edge of the barrel diameter for optimum gas escape on the base of the bullet, and the actual crown has a 60 degree/20 degree cut. The 60 degree cut is for the brush to re-enter the bore without damage, and 20 degree cut is to break the 60 right at the actual origin of the rifling.

This method of crowning allows the brush to re-enter without worry of damage, and after over 5,000 rounds from some of my custom varmint bench rifles, other than chasing the rifling with the bullet to maintain consistant contact with the lands, they all shoot about as well as they did when the barrels were new.

Darrell Holland first made me aware of this method of crowning, and now I employ it on every rifle I have made up, I've even had some factory barrels re-crowned this way.....seems to work very well and allows "normal" cleaning procedure without unscrewing the brush for every pass back down the barrel.

Rick in Oregon--I don't mean to hijack the thread, but would you know if "most" gunsmiths have the tooling necessary to cut a dual crowned barrel or is this a process that only a few gunsmiths perform?

Thanks,

Silverfox: In terms of tooling, most, if not all smiths would have the right cutters to perform this type of operation. It would primarily depend on if or not they were willing to do it, but considering we are paying them to do what we task them to do, I'd imagine most would, and would possibily add it to their standard list of availble options if they actually knew about it.

It is not hard to perform, and any smith with a decent lathe that does barrel work should be able to do it correctly. It's just one of those things that is not common knowledge......yet.

My Savage barrels destroy the brush in a hurry if I pull it back through. About 2 weeks ago I gave the pull back a try. After six or so strokes, the brush was toast. That's when I started thinking about a quick release brush... If a smith says he can't do a double crown, find a new smith. A good smith can do ANYTHING YOU DESIRE with the proper tools.

Mike: When you say the brush was toast, can I assume that you pushed the brush all the way out prior to the return stroke? NEVER reverse a BRUSH inside the bore! (I know you probably know that, the emphasis was for newbies....). Reversing/short stroking a patch is an entirely different matter.

I'm currently working with a major manufacturer on a "quick release" cleaning rod adapter that will allow very quick change of jag or brush....can't say any more now, but I'll tell you what I can when I can.....stay tuned...film at 11:00.

I'll expect royalties monthly. I could be bribed to stop my work. A new gen 5 ATN will do I'm not looking to make money. Just easier cleaning for me and my friends.

All my Savage barrels except my 6.5/284 have no crown. Just a .050 recess with a Very sharp corner on the bore. It will destroy a brush fast on the pull back.

Mike: You may want to consider having your smith recrown those sharp-edged barrels with a proper crown, even the 60/20 degree one Darrell Holland specializes in doing as mentioned earlier.

Considering the number of shots I typically take when shooting ground squirrels or PD's "BR Style" in the field, taking off the brush for every return stroke would cut my actual shooting time by a significant amount.....that dual crown really pays off in that regard, and my barrels are none the worse for wear because of it.

As for 'your royalties'......let's just get the thing out there for now, if this works out properly, it will be a real winner for all of us, as I use two cleaning rods in the field and in the shop for each rifle, one with a jag, the other with a brush, saves time switching them about all the time, but Dewey rods ain't cheap either. The quick-release thingie will be about 1/8 the cost of a good rod........ I'll keep you posted.

Hi Guys

Correct me please if I am off the mark here but...........
how can soft brass bristles damage hard steel, I know we should be carefull with the crown, I am not a mettalurgist (thats never spelt right) but aint that why bore brushes are made of all brass (the good ones anyway.