SmallCaliberCentral

Hello guys. How about some opinions, ideas, tricks, or information about leveling a scope with the bore of the rifle. I've tried several different gadgets loaned to me for leveling but wasn't very impressed. Did just as well "eyeballing". I like shooting 100/200 yards but need to be able to go 600 sometimes and if the scope is not level with the bore, well you know the rest. Any & all opinions would be welcome. Have a great & safe weekend.
Jim D

Hi Jim D, get your hands on a catalog from Sinclair. In their newest catalog, dated 2015-A, look on pages 211 for rings w/levels made right in the rings, good for making sure your rifle is level when shooting.
As for getting a scope aligned, I use the the scope alignment tool on page 215, top left on page. Also a very handy tool to own and use once you know your rings are aligned, is called a Segway Reticle leveler, page 216, used to make sure the scope is not canted to one side. I've been using both of these tools on my own rifles and helping a few other shooters set up their scopes, with no complaints.

Level rifle side-to-side in gun vise/cleaning cradle and lock in place. Some rifles are easier than others to find level..... Hang plumb line and rotate scope until in alignment. If you prefer to have a vertical AND a horizontal line to work off of, use the plumb bob to mount a target on the back-stop. After leveling a scope, the only way to realize any benefit in the field while shooting, the firearm must be kept in the same orientation. Guess that goes without saying.

I have tried the Wheeler Level, level level with poor results. I am looking for some bar stock that will fit in the action, where the bolt slides on. I will put a level on the bar stock and on top of the scope turret. I saw this on the G7 show.

Good luck…and let me know what ya’ found out. But, as Ramos said, some are easier than others.

- To me, what ever is used as the base of your endeavors [work bench, table, floor or whatever] has to be level.

- After that, then what ever cradles the rifle has to be level.

- After that, the reference part of the rifle has to be level whether it’s a flat spot on the receiver, scope base or what have you.

- After that, what ever is the reference point on the scope has to be level.

- Oh, before I forget, you need to have a decent and repeatable level.

It may sound like over engineering or stacking BB's but I’m just trying to point out all of the variables and just because one doesn't see them doesn't mean they aren't there.

I’ve tried several gadgets but lately I’ve settled on the Wheeler level system. It’s not the level-level-level that came several years ago but a more recent version that has heavier and better grade levels with one that fits on the barrel.

I’ve also started putting levels on the scopes to hold the rifle level while shooting. Hey, no need in having a perfect leveled scope & rifle combo only to cant it out in the fields when shooting.

When I finish I use a horizontal and vertical reference and run the turrets from top to bottom and left to right checking for any signs of walking of the references. On this note, this where having a good quality scope comes into play. There are many stories out there where the scope doesn’t track true.

While this may sound like an exercise in futility, it does work and has served me well and like everything else, when you get the hang of it goes pretty quick.

When all of this is done and you're sighting it in and settle in on one of those .250 x .250 MOA groups, always...always take the time to do the box test and as previously mentioned, make sure you're not canting the rifle while doing so.

Sorry for the long wind...HTH

As I user Weaver-type rings/bases on all my rifles, and mostly horizontally split rings,the best routine I've found is: Lay small level across bases and tighten gun vise when bubble shows level. Mount scope loosely in rings. Most scopes have enough of a flat surface either with or without turret caps to get a level on; start tightening rings when you get scope level.
I've tried 'em all, but this simple process (although it makes several assumptions), is generally the quickest and generally accurate.

Thanks guys for the information. Rowdy, that's what I use & how I've been doing it. Warne one piece weaver style base & Warne quick detachable horizontal rings. Just wanted ideas on other ways. Thanks again,
Jim D