SmallCaliberCentral

It is pretty common knowledge among those of us that shoot the 20 calibers, that a 1/12 twist barrel will shoot the 39 grainers very accurately, however when you try the 40 grainers, they just don't hold the same degree of accuracy.
That is why the majority, when replacing a barrel in 20 caliber, go to the 1/11, which is a very good all around twist for the 20's, until your start wanting to shoot over around 50 grain bullets, then you better move to a 1/8 twist.
Maybe one day, that factory makers will wise up and start putting out their 20 calibers in a 1/11, until then they seem to just stick with the 1/12, which is what they started with, mainly when they came out with the 204 Ruger.

FWIW, late last year I finished my 1st .20r Ruger build. I installed a White Oak Armory 26" heavy varmint barrel. It was a 1/10" twist. I'm shooting .39gr bullets and this AR build will hold 1/2MOA all day long. The only down side I have with this rifle is it builds up with copper pretty quickly... (Again, my 1st experience with a .204 Ruger).

Stugots wrote: ↑Thu Nov 25, 2021 12:33 pm FWIW, late last year I finished my 1st .20r Ruger build. I installed a White Oak Armory 26" heavy varmint barrel. It was a 1/10" twist. I'm shooting .39gr bullets and this AR build will hold 1/2MOA all day long. The only down side I have with this rifle is it builds up with copper pretty quickly... (Again, my 1st experience with a .204 Ruger).

Lapping the barrel may help with the copper buildup, but what I would do if it was mine is to clean it real good......down to as close to bare metal as you can get, then with the barrel clean and dry, push 2 patches of Lock Ease (colloidal graphite) down the barrel and leave set for about 15 to 20 min. then go shoot it. Repeat the cleaning again, then the Lock Ease. Soon there will be no copper buildup.

I use a good carbon cleaner first when I clean mine, then Tactical Advantage by Wipe Out until the patches come out clean. Then the lock Ease. Cleaning becomes easy.

Another vote for LockEase to keep fouling to a bare minimum.

I use it in all my high volume rat rifles and have found using it really keeps the fouling down, and makes the next cleaning much easier; less copper and carbon buildup.

This product was only available from NAPA stores, and came in a nice little squeeze bottle for easy application. Then some marketing genius decided to only offer it in spray cans..........ugh. Still very useful, but now a PITA to use because of the dang spray bottle. "If it ain't broke......"

K22 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 28, 2021 6:41 am Lapping the barrel may help with the copper buildup, but what I would do if it was mine is to clean it real good......down to as close to bare metal as you can get, then with the barrel clean and dry, push 2 patches of Lock Ease (colloidal graphite) down the barrel and leave set for about 15 to 20 min. then go shoot it. Repeat the cleaning again, then the Lock Ease. Soon there will be no copper buildup.

I use a good carbon cleaner first when I clean mine, then Tactical Advantage by Wipe Out until the patches come out clean. Then the lock Ease. Cleaning becomes easy.

I found this locally in the 'squeeze fluid' bottle and will give it a try.

I'm a little concerned with leaving the Lock Ease in the barrel and shooting it. Wouldn't it be safer to push a clean patch through the barrel and then shoot?

Thanks for the heads-up on the Lock Ease.

This one [url]https://www.idealtruevalue.com/sto ... gKmE_D_BwE[/url] or the aerosol will work, not just the powder tube. The idea is to get the graphite into the barrel, let the fluid evaporate which leaves just the graphite. When you fire a bullet it pushes the graphite into the pores of the metal, making it slippery/smoother and leaves nothing for copper to attach to. It will not affect your first shot.

The lock ease fluid will evaporate and leave a slight/dry film of graphite, which will do no harm, for just firing your round down it.

I understand your logic. I've already done a full cycle of ammonia based copper cleaner down the bore 3 separate times and the cleaning patches come out very green... I will preform this cycle again waiting for copper free cleansing patches as many times as it takes, followed by a brush and patches for carbon removal. Will report my results!

You might want to then, work a few patches with JB mild abrasive in the bore, then cleans it good with a copper remover, followed by some plain old Hoppes #9, then dry patches. The JB scrub should remove the copper and other coatings in the bore. Just take you time and work it over good.

And be sure and use a non brass jag and brush.

K22 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:43 am And be sure and use a non brass jag and brush.

You mean because of the ammonia in the copper remover, or for other reasons? I have been using brass brushes for years with no issues. After I push a brush through, I immediately head for the wash tub and thoroughly flush the brush (and brass end of the rod) off with running water.

I will have a chance to pick up a tube of JB today an give it a try. Will report back with my findings.

Brass brushes will show bluing on patches making it hard to determine if its copper from the barrel or did it come from the brass brush. I use aluminum jags and nylon brushes.