SmallCaliberCentral

Bushnell Millet LRS1 6-25X56mm Rifle Scope


you think that be too big for a 204? or should i just keep my nikon 5.5 x16.5x44 on it? my dad has the millet scope an said he will never use it an will give it to me---if I want to use it---

It's fine, but you will find that you will probally keep it set around 14 to 16 power because as the temp comes up you will see more mirage. However there are times that the higher maginfication is very nice to have. Hope that helps. Gary

The No BS test for a scope is resolution under practical conditions. In my view 2x power x range in 100s/100 is practical power that should resolve 1" at range under mirage conditions, or even normal conditions. For 200 yards set your scope on 2x 200/100 or 4 power or for 300 yards 2x 300/100 or 6x or use closest zoom value available. Carefully adjust parallax setting for that range. Set eyepiece focus for maximum clarity of reticle.

So on a brown piece of paper (like scrap from shopping bag) draw a dark brown dot about 1" in diameter with a brown crayon. Place it at the range and see if you can see the dot. Check focus and parallax setting for maximum clarity of reticle and target. If you can't see the dot increase power until you can. Farther away you have to go from estimate, the more you need a different scope. Brown dot on similar paper will test for color fidelity of optics.

Go for resolution, rather than high power. Better resolution will allow you to see through mirage.

Good check for resolution is place dollar bill on the target at the range and look at the detail on it. Better you can see detail on dollar bill, better the resolution. Big problem with varmint rifles is seeing varmints against natural camouflage and resolving them.

This makes the test of optics more scientific than subjective. Testing the scope for optical performance with tests like this will enhance your shooting experience. It's no secret that optically you tend to get what you pay for. The premium scope manufacturers have known this for years and they are starting to implement new technologies after serious competition from quality European manufacturer’s that have invaded their turf.


PS: If you see nothing but a blur in the eyepiece, try a different scope. Oh, and you might check out some expensive optics at your local FFL. See if you notice a difference in them. If They allow take them outside. By all means don't test optics by looking through a dirty window!

I have the 4-16x50 Millett TRS-1 on my 204. I'd describe it as bulky and heavy. The glass is good enough for a cheap Chinese scope, but a couple mechanical aspects leave a little to be desired.

1. On mine, I found the adjustable ocular lens tube wiggles unless screwed in tight to one end of it's focus range. Luckily for me, it works fine that way, but for a long time, since I don't wear glasses, I assumed I should leave it at the middle of it's focus range. Because there was wiggle in the way the threads fit each other, I believe it was causing a lot of inconsistency, even from one shot to the next. I thought it was parallax issues, and not having a consistent cheek weld, and it may be in part, but I also blame that loose fitting ocular lens tube.

2. On mine, the locks on the windage/elevation turrets are sticky. When you screw down the lock, it pushes a ring around the turret up, locking it. Sometimes after tightening too tight, I loosen the nut, and the ring doesn't drop, keeping the turret locked. I have to grab the ring and wiggle back and forth on the turret to get it to pop loose. I just leave them loose now. They don't seem to go anywhere. The repeatability of adjustments have been acceptable for how cheap he scope is.

3. On mine, the side focus / parallax adjustment knob and magnification setting knob are both VERY stiff in cold weather, but they've got better since I've had it. Luckily they're huge (kind of ugly), so you can get a good grip on them.

4. On mine, there's no indicator on the turrets to indicate how many revolutions they've turned. A feature some may need.

5. On mine, I have found the green illuminated reticle to be more useful than black crosshairs at night, but only at the minimum illumination setting. Any brighter than setting 1 (labeled NV) and the whole lens is filled with bright green light you can't see through to your target. This also highlights the little particles of debris inside the scope. !!!!

I paid $280 shipped for my TRS-1, and could probably feel comfortable selling it to someone for like $100 when I can upgrade. Just don't pay a lot for them.

It may be time I contact Bushnell about sending it in for some warranty work too. I guess they can lower the illumination brightness range of the reticle. They also have improved turrets with revolution indicators on them now, and a better set screw system to lock in your zero. What I was reading online was half of those sending thing in to Millett 2 years ago never saw their scope again. I've tried dealing with Bushnell on the phone and given up, but this thread makes me think about trying again. I'll post here what happens this time around.