I asked this question on a different forum and got some good info but never hurts to gather more. As I get closer to actually doing this, I have been thinking about how I would do it. If you were to follow the scientific method you would only change one component at a time (as in have all things the same and test different bullets). My question is what order or does it matter. Because your bullet pick could effect your powder pick. Anyway (for 204) I want to first make a load for the 39gr sbk then start on a 32 and maybe a 35 or 40. I know the bullet I want and brass I will use, that leaves primers which I have heard does not make much difference, so that leaves powder and bullet seating (unless Im missing something). So here what order do you pick a powder type, charge amount, and seat depth? Because I know the pick of one will do something to the other with pressure and burn rate and other things. Maybe Im making this much harder than it needs to be but, I think I will find this rather fun and a new hobby.
I dont really have a powder that I MUST use, im willing to try anything if it will make better groups . Also Im a red blood American so I would like it to go fast, but really I dont care as long as its accurate and gets the job done. (this will be a P-dog load). All im trying to say is I dont have any requirements for it but to shoot 39sbk and be accurate (providing minimal human error).
Any information about your process would be appreciated,
Jake
Jake, there's more than one way to skin a cat, but I would work in this order:
1) choose bullet (manufacturer, style, weight)
2) powder type
3) powder charge
4) seating depth
5) fine tuning tweaks, primers, advanced case prep, etc.
Have you looked into the OCW method? If you Google "OCW load" you'll find some reading on the subject. So far, I think it's been helping me find the best loads the quickest and cheapest way possible.
As far as powder, these (and several others) have proven to work well: RL 10x, H4895, BLC 2, , Varget. IMR 8208 XBR is a newer powder (still may be hard to find in stock) I'm having success with. I wouldn't loose much sleep over the powder type for now, most of the top powders for the 204 should give good groups once you find the right charge, assuming you and the rifle shoot ok. Some combinations of bullets and powder may give the best accuracy below maximum charge and velocity. If so and you want a good shooting but hotter load, you might have to try other bullets and powders to find a combination that shoots good at or near max load. As you are aware, accuracy first. A miss is a miss no matter how fast you did it.
Also, there is thread with load information titled "Favorite Loads", located at the top of the "Reloading the .204 Ruger" section of this forum.
While im thinking about it, when you guys buy guns how close to MSRP do you pay. I want to buy a Savage 12 vlp,($1021 msrp) only found 2 places in 50 miles of where I live that can get it, one wants MSRP, the ohter is a Savage Dealer, I have not got a price from him yet, but Im confident his will be within $100 of MSRP. I see it on the internet for 500-850 but I have never bought one on the internet and would prefer to avoid it for many reasons.
Jake
Not sure about other brands but if someone is asking for MSRP on a Savage they're ripping you off. Look elsewhere.
The only time you should pay MSRP is buying straight from the factory. Must admit I haven't purchased a new Sav from a dealer in quite a few years but I would be ticked to pay MSRP.
For load development I use Creighton Audettes Incremental Load Development Method. With expierience I can tell if a certain set of components will work within 15rds fired. great way to expieriment with lots of different components.
Made a call to my local dealer. I was interested in the answer myself
Savage 12 VLP in 204R would cost $865.00. Thats in Ct where everything costs more
thanks for your help, what base and rings did you pick to mount the NF? Hopefully in about a week I can say Savage 12 VLP Left hand + NF 5.5-22 = P-dog Explosion.
Anyway I priced the gun in many places and only found two that could order it, one that wanted close to MSRP, and then got it bought today for 780+ transfer fee. Im happy with the price. Now to start thinking about load development!
thanks for your help, what base and rings did you pick to mount the NF? Hopefully in about a week I can say Savage 12 VLP Left hand + NF 5.5-22 = P-dog Explosion.
Anyway I priced the gun in many places and only found two that could order it, one that wanted close to MSRP, and then got it bought today for 780+ transfer fee. Im happy with the price. Now to start thinking about load development!
I use mostly Warne one piece picatinny/Weaver bases and Warne quick detach rings on my Savages. Makes it easy to swap scopes around especially considering I'm always swapping barrels around too.
Recently bought a Bench-Source one piece Davidson style base and Kelby Rings. It currently has a 14 twist 6BR tube under it. For aluminum base and rings that tube is telling me theres zero flex in that setup for me to worry about. Its currently shootin tighter than my full blown custom 6ppc. Guess I forgot to tell that Savage action its not supposed to be able to outshoot a custom
Have fun with your new stick. Try to hunt up some Federal 205 Match primers. Time and time again they've proven to me to be the best.
I have that exact rifle, the Savage 12 VLP. I got mine for $849. Shoots very well.
My Budget was tight and I purchased a KonusPro M30 8.5x32x52 scope, Mil dot, with 1/4 MOA target turrets. I used Leupold base and 30mm rings. The scope ran me $450 I love it.
The best thing to use is the experience of others, so I went to the web looking for recommendations. That's how I found this site.
1. In general I tend to use Federal Match Primers for all my loads as they tend to have remarkable consistency. I even have Federal GOLD Match for my long range precision rigs.
2. Once I have a recommended load I do a sensitivity analysis, loading five rounds each in increments of .5 grains. Once I have a good one I do the whole process again, this tends to get me a really good load that reflects the difference in my rifle and those of the original load developer. I tend to hand weigh all my charges with an auto scales trickler, rejecting a weigh that is farther off than .1 grain.
3. For calibers that are available, I go here for recommendations:
Here is an intersting picture of a target shot at 100 yards with 7 WSM and Berger 180 VLD. Note how things suddenly come together with addition of 1/2 grain of powder. Primer is WLRM. Upper left group is a tad over 1 moa, which ain't bad, but I love it when a plan comes together!
Note how on lower right target, USO SN-3 moves POI 1" with four clicks as scope is calibrated in shooters MOA. 4 clicks = 1 inch at 100 yards. Upper left shot on lower right target is the result of over confidence causing shot to be pulled. Oops!
Lately, I've taken to the OCW method and it has worked out pretty good plus saves wear & tear on the equipment. Previously, I went thru the recommended range of a given powder/bullet combination. With small case cartridges like the 204 & 223 I went in .2-grain incriments. For cases like the 308 or 243, it was every .5 grain. Once I found one that grouped with acceptiable velocity I would start playing with neck tensions, seating depths and primers.
Never tried the Audette method because how do you rule out a flier(s)?
Jim White wrote:Lately, I've taken to the OCW method and it has worked out pretty good plus saves wear & tear on the equipment. Previously, I went thru the recommended range of a given powder/bullet combination. With small case cartridges like the 204 & 223 I went in .2-grain incriments. For cases like the 308 or 243, it was every .5 grain. Once I found one that grouped with acceptiable velocity I would start playing with neck tensions, seating depths and primers.
Never tried the Audette method because how do you rule out a flier(s)?
Unless your shooting in windy conditions a flier simply means "somethings not quite right"
If you see a flier in an Audette node chances are very high you'll see those same fliers when shooting groups.
Jim White wrote:Lately, I've taken to the OCW method and it has worked out pretty good plus saves wear & tear on the equipment. Previously, I went thru the recommended range of a given powder/bullet combination. With small case cartridges like the 204 & 223 I went in .2-grain incriments. For cases like the 308 or 243, it was every .5 grain. Once I found one that grouped with acceptiable velocity I would start playing with neck tensions, seating depths and primers.
Never tried the Audette method because how do you rule out a flier(s)?
Unless your shooting in windy conditions a flier simply means "somethings not quite right"
If you see a flier in an Audette node chances are very high you'll see those same fliers when shooting groups.
I see your point but at the end of the day one has to be able to analyze the shots. I can't begin to count how many times I've had 4-shots touching only for the 5th one to go any where but close to the others. One of the things I've detected, especially with the long & slim bullets is their consistency with a comparater. Probably not a big deal for some bullets but for those that are sensitive IRT the distance to the lands, well...the headaches can be endless. One thing I've learned, can't take anything for granted.
I use win cases, cci 450 mag primers, because I inherited thousands! I started with IMR 4895 powder because I have it and there is a abundance of load data for it. Best advice I can give is keep it safe! I then took some advice of a local shop that favors the 20 cal rounds two. He was having incredble grouping with alliant ten x.
First off, I never start off with someone elses load data, even if they have the same gun! All barrels are different!
I start off with manufactures powder or bullets load data at the min, charge. I load 5 rnds min load then 5 rounds a half a grain higher etc till I reach max load. Go to the range on a calm day. If gun is zeroed for a different bullet I do not change scope. I shoot lowest charge at a br target using the same aim point. Dont worry about target bullsye just aim point, you are looking for grouping. then I clean and shoot next five rnds half grain higher. I clean between each load increase to max load if i am not seeing sighns of over pressure. Working this way one group always stands out above the rest. I then take best group and load 3 to 5 rnds each varying charge in tenth grain increments + or minus. This often really hits the holy grail of sweet spots. The best is what i shoot for my gun. It often isnt the fastest load but is always most accurate I can find.
If it is first time reloading I strongley sugest you have someone that practices safe reloading spend a couple hours with you and show you the steps! I no one available bu a good book Like Noslers Load manual or any reputable manufacturer. Read it till you understand it, and stay safe. You are on your way to some great shooting if you have the paitence to do it right. I wish you good luck1
. Also Im a red blood American so I would like it to go fast, but really I dont care as long as its accurate and gets the job done. (this will be a P-dog load). All im trying to say is I dont have any requirements for it but to shoot 39sbk and be accurate (providing minimal human error).
