SmallCaliberCentral

So when I prep my brass I use the RCBS Trim Mate power station. I use the primer pocket cutter, chamfer tools, and their flash hole deburring tool which is just a bevel and I do not use a stop. I just look to remove any apparent flashing at the inside base of the hole. I follow with a quick single stroke in/out on a nylon brush mounted to the top of the Trim Mate and put in my ammo box. I put in the ammo box rather than the reloading tray as I occasionally miss the next step (priming ) and end up pulling up a dummy round out of my ammo box


So just how "wrong" is my process for doing flash holes and how much am I giving up by doing it this way?

Sounds like I need a stem mounted unit with a positive bottom stop. Does someone make such an aminal? How many different "flavors" woulld a guy need or is this a universal tool when you exclude the case referenced stopper?

I'd guess this question comes from the negative feedback I gave on wirelessguy's deburr tool he's marketing. Even with that, I don't think the flash hole deburring operation is a big deal. I bet in 100 rounds, it might save you 3 of them moving a .1 around your group. Sometimes, yes, I suppose you might get a hole that's got a really big burr blocking it, depending on the brand, and lot number of the brass you're prepping. What I'm saying is I do think that if I am going to take the time to do it, I might as well do it the best I can, with the best available tool. When I decided flash hole uniforming might be worth the time spent, since you only have to do it once, I researched the most affordable, yet efficient methods of getting it done.

If I had a .17 I'd use this one.

On larger cases I use this one.

On my .204's I use this one. See video.

I wouldn't say you're doing it wrong, but I would say there's a possibility that by not using a tool that indexes off the case bottom, you may be defeating the purpose of doing the flash hole deburring operation. I think the goal is more to "uniform" them, not only deburr. As little as I think it helps groups, it's a precision sport, so we might as well try and go for uniformity where we can.

One area I'm having a problem with in my case prep, is in my RCBS prep center. Sure, it's quick and easy to chamfer the inside case mouth, deburr the outside case mouth. I also run the case down on a brass brush once as a last step to hopefully brush out any soot left in the neck, or leave them somewhat uniform. My problem with the whole thing is when chamfering and deburring using this machine, the case isn't held square in any chuck. It's up to me to try to hold the case perfectly upright so the tool makes a square cut. I don't know if something is bent inside mine or what, but all the tools wobble a little bit. I think the RCBS Trim Mate (prep center) leaves these operations wide open to operator error. You have to develop a feel for just how long to rest the case on the cutter. Too deep a chamfer, and too much deburr on the outside, will leave you with a razor edge on the case, which I doubt hurts anything, but it isn't very durable. The mouth probably melts a little, or gets blown away with the heat of ignition if it's too thin. Thinking "deburr" much more than "chamfer" is probably best with this machine, and a very light touch is required. It should also only be done on a case that's been trimmed square, and not once once fired cases that were already prepped once. I guess people have been doing these operations with the little handheld tools for years, even though it may not be the most precision way to do it. I think I read this a few years ago. The part on chamfer/deburr particularly made sense.

Maybe I shouldn't even worry about the flash hole uniforming until I'm willing to advance to neck sizing. I guess I figure if it can help just a little, and doesn't add too many hours to prepping a batch of 1000 brass, why not do it? It can't hurt.

its interesting that you are such an expert on flash hole debur tools. I find it odd that you are so focused on trash talking my tool when you haven't even used it. I have offered you the chance to try the tool with a full money back gurantee. You declined the offer and then go post negative feedback about it. Whats your beef with me or this tool? If you don't like the product that's fine, you don't have to own one. However its makes no sense to down something that you have no first hand experience or knowledge of. I would like some of the other member to weigh in on this. I look at the shooting sport as a brotherhood, not a chance to tear others down. Do you agree with what BabaOriley is doing?

BabaOriley wrote:I'd guess this question comes from the negative feedback I gave on wirelessguy's deburr tool he's marketing. Even with that, I don't think the flash hole deburring operation is a big deal. I bet in 100 rounds, it might save you 3 of them moving a .1 around your group. Sometimes, yes, I suppose you might get a hole that's got a really big burr blocking it, depending on the brand, and lot number of the brass you're prepping. What I'm saying is I do think that if I am going to take the time to do it, I might as well do it the best I can, with the best available tool. When I decided flash hole uniforming might be worth the time spent, since you only have to do it once, I researched the most affordable, yet efficient methods of getting it done.

If I had a .17 I'd use this one.

On larger cases I use this one.

On my .204's I use this one. See video.

I wouldn't say you're doing it wrong, but I would say there's a possibility that by not using a tool that indexes off the case bottom, you may be defeating the purpose of doing the flash hole deburring operation. I think the goal is more to "uniform" them, not only deburr. As little as I think it helps groups, it's a precision sport, so we might as well try and go for uniformity where we can.

One area I'm having a problem with in my case prep, is in my RCBS prep center. Sure, it's quick and easy to chamfer the inside case mouth, deburr the outside case mouth. I also run the case down on a brass brush once as a last step to hopefully brush out any soot left in the neck, or leave them somewhat uniform. My problem with the whole thing is when chamfering and deburring using this machine, the case isn't held square in any chuck. It's up to me to try to hold the case perfectly upright so the tool makes a square cut. I don't know if something is bent inside mine or what, but all the tools wobble a little bit. I think the RCBS Trim Mate (prep center) leaves these operations wide open to operator error. You have to develop a feel for just how long to rest the case on the cutter. Too deep a chamfer, and too much deburr on the outside, will leave you with a razor edge on the case, which I doubt hurts anything, but it isn't very durable. The mouth probably melts a little, or gets blown away with the heat of ignition if it's too thin. Thinking "deburr" much more than "chamfer" is probably best with this machine, and a very light touch is required. It should also only be done on a case that's been trimmed square, and not once once fired cases that were already prepped once. I guess people have been doing these operations with the little handheld tools for years, even though it may not be the most precision way to do it. I think I read this a few years ago. The part on chamfer/deburr particularly made sense.

Maybe I shouldn't even worry about the flash hole uniforming until I'm willing to advance to neck sizing. I guess I figure if it can help just a little, and doesn't add too many hours to prepping a batch of 1000 brass, why not do it? It can't hurt.

I guess I saw it more as constructive criticism, but what do I know?

wirelessguy2005 wrote:its interesting that you are such an expert on flash hole debur tools. I find it odd that you are so focused on trash talking my tool when you haven't even used it. I have offered you the chance to try the tool with a full money back gurantee. You declined the offer and then go post negative feedback about it. Whats your beef with me or this tool? If you don't like the product that's fine, you don't have to own one. However its makes no sense to down something that you have no first hand experience or knowledge of. I would like some of the other member to weigh in on this. I look at the shooting sport as a brotherhood, not a chance to tear others down. Do you agree with what BabaOriley is doing?

I would say this forum could be thought of as a brotherhood. As soon as a woman joins you'll have to call it a "community", and that'd be fine. Any "beef" I have most likely stems from wishing you had designed a tool I could use. I like tools, especially if they do something to save me time, or do something better than what's already available at a lower price. I understand your tool doesn't need to be any better than the competition for it to sell, but I was hoping for more for "my brothers" and myself. I tried detailing how it might be made better in a private message. It was when you chose not to offer any response as to why you designed your tool the way you did, just "because", that it became obvious to me you don't really care about offering up something to "help a brother out". You're probably just that annoying guy who always wants to sell people something. Try participating in this forum as a fellow shooter with advice and experiences for more than a week before using it as a potential marketing demographic.

If you want me to try your tool, try starting over. Try asking, "What are your likes and dislikes of the flash hole deburr tools available on the market today? Is there any ways they could be improved?" Then make that tool THIS "brotherhood" wants.

What I heard from you was, "Thanks for the feedback, but I really wasn't going to listen anyway. Try my tool that's the same !@#$% way of doing it as most other tools already available. I'll sell you one for each caliber you own, and you'll like it because it has a knurled stainless handle, not that plastic junk."

A picture is worth.... I don't need to handle your tool to know it's not what I want, and not what I'd recommend. Your machinist may have 25 years experience, but I used to be a CAD drafter, so I understand exactly how your tool works, and how it could easily be much better.

And don't tell me I can't share my opinion. That's what this place is for, I thought.

This is the last I have to say about the matter.

Just to add a tiny bit of feedback to the above FWIW....
1. I have both a mechanical and civil engineering background (who cares, right?).
2. +1 for BabaOriley's comments.
3. BT/End

thanks for the positive feedback guys, i wouldn't of expected any less.