SmallCaliberCentral

I just bought a new Forster Co-Ax reloading press. I've never used one before but have read a lot of good things about them. For the last 40 years I have been using an RCBS Rockchucker or a Redding Big Boss press.
The manual that comes with the press is very brief with a lot of marketing hype. So, for you Co-Ax press owners, any words of wisdom you would like to share? I would appreciate any observations, gotcha's, press set-up, mounting, die adjustment or anything other tips you would like to share to help me get over the learning curve with the least amount of stress.

Rgds, Gerry

Clean and lube everything.

The retaining ball/button and spring in the top (where the die clamping ring slides in) should be somewhat loose. Not a ton of pressure on the ball, some to keep the die from being loose, but not tight.

I would not tighten the handle extension in place, you only need it when sizing.

Gw, I have been using the Co-Ax for a bit and really like the way it performs. You might want to do a search on 6mm and Benchrest Central. A lot of good info there. What I have learned is this:
Use the Forster rings for your dies. They are cheap and the right dimension. The detent adjustment on the left side of the press that adjusts the tension on the die ring needs to be loose. Just a tiny bit of tension or no tension. Let the die float. Read the instructions on bullet seating. You want very little tension on the jaws when bullet seating and everything will align. This press is introducing no run out. Any that I have I can trace to the brass (they get pitched). Very quick to change dies. I used to have a dedicated press to decap, no longer necessary. The Co-Ax is 100 percent clean. Keep every thing with a light coat of oil, load and shoot. Has got a conventional ram press beat hands down in every way.

GW, I've been using the Co-ax Press for 35 years and agree with what the others have said. I have found that Redding and Hornady lock rings work well in it also, so if you already have these brands of dies, I wouldn't go rushing to buy new Forster lockrings. Also, older (70's and early 80's) RCBS lockrings work, too. I use the Lee collet neck dies and they also work well with the Co-ax press.

The other guys said pretty much all I could offer up with the exception of buy or make yourself a "shorty" handle. I made one yrs ago and now I believe there is one offered by Sinclairs. The long handle provides a huge amount of leverage, a short handle provides all ya need for a smaller cartridge such as the 204.. I bought mine new in 79/80 and would like to have another..

Rod

Thanks to all you folks for your comments and suggestions. I really appreciate it ! I finally got the press set up and resized my first cases last night (.243 Win). Wow!
Case neck runout was almost none existent except for some cases which had more than normal variation in neck wall thickness (checked them with a tubing mic). I think I'm really going to like this press.
One question which no one has addressed; changing the "shell holder jaws" for the .204/.222/.223 vs .308 size cases. From reading the manual, it appears you need to reverse the jaws
for the two different size cases. However, my hunting partner who has the older B-2 press (I have the B-3) says he doesn't have to reverse the jaws for reloading the .204. Anyone else have this same experience??

Rgds, Gerry

Yes, you do have to reverse the jaws, but only if you are sizing cases.

I do not swap the jaws if I am seating bullets.

Those LITTLE springs tend to JUMP to the floor.

Failure to change the jaws on the lower end with the .204 & .223 can cause them to strip off the case base rim, resulting in a 'stuck' case and then the headaches start if you are using Forster dies...

I had a couple when I first got my press and had to order a stuck case remover from Forster.... Since turning over the lower jaws, I've never had a problem.