SmallCaliberCentral

I finally scrounged up 100 CCI 400's and have all components to load. I purchased new Remington 221 Fireball brass and wondered if you guys lube prior to running them through the neck die. I purchased a match S neck die set from Todd and I could have sworn he said not to lube before neck sizing.

Also, what is the trimmed case length?

Thanks!

Bill

Bill, neck sizing lube depends on what bushing you've got. If it's a TiN (titanium nitride) bushing, no lube required, otherwise I just use Imperial Dry Neck Lube, which is just a graphite powder of their mix. You only need to dip about .100" of the case neck in the stuff, then just size away. Wipes right off with a shop rag on the outside, then just run a bore mop on the inside.

Most 20VT chamber length seems to run around 1.405" or thereabouts. Unless you've measured your chamber with a Sinclair chamber length gauge, best just to trim to 1.395", which is where most of your brass will be anyway. Todd's book includes a complete set of reamer drawings for all the .20 calibers and lists the 20VT chamber length as 1.400".

You may run into primer issues with the 400's, as the little VT is plenty zippy and generates pressures similar to the 204. If any problems arise such as excessive cratering or flattening, it's because of the thin cup. CCI 450's are thicker for this use, but I've had very good results with the VT using both Fed 205M and Rem 7-1/2's, the latter being my go-to for the round. HTH

Thanks Rick. I got the Redding bushing from Todd along with the match s die set. I'm not sure if it's titanium. Todd did say I didn't have to lube it. At least that what I thought he said.

As for primers, I was hoping the 400's would be ok. No one has any other primers in stock. Can't even back order them. I only got 100 so I'll try them. If they don't work out, I'll wait till this panic buying dies down and get some other primers.

Bill, if the bushing is a yellow color it's TiN. Silver color is hardened tool steel.

When installing the bushing in the die, be sure to install it 'number down', as the bushing has a slight taper of .0005". Also leave it 'float' to properly self-center on the case neck by leaving it loose by 1/4 turn on the primer seating stem. I never use the lock ring supplied, and this method really minimizes any TIR by allowing the stem to self-center as it floats in the die body.

Thanks for all your help Rick. I'm pretty sure Todd mentioned what you said about the bushing but he was talking so fast I didn't get all of the info.

I keep checking the UPS tracking status and the Cooper is still on the brown truck out for delivery to my FFL. I did pickup the Ruger #1 though and I can't wait to shoot both.

Rick,

Finally got the reloading dies from Todd and just prepped 100 cases. Todd told me to run the new 221 FB cases through the body die then the run it through the neck die. I have the TIN 226 bushing.

Two problems happened:

1) the decap pin broke on one of the cases. It seemed as if the primer hole wasn't centered properly and I pushed when I should have backed off.

2) after running the cases through the body die and then through the neck die, the case does not chamber in the Cooper 38.

What am I missing in getting the case to size properly so as to chamber?

Thanks!

Bill

Bill,

Most likely you will need to use the body die and push the shoulder back just a little bit more.
I always use a full length 20 vt die when initially making brass for my rifle, its a one step process doing it that way. Just an option if you want to save yourself some time and headaches. After that initial forming step its fine to use a Type S neck bushing die to reload since the brass has been formed to your chamber, and also a body die to bump the shoulder a bit when the brass gets hard to chamber(typically after a few firings). Just my 2 cents, hope it helps.

*** On a side note you may want to double check the neck chamber dimensions of your rifle. I remember hearing somewhere that cooper had a tight neck chamber on their 20 vt rifles. I believe i heard it was a .230 neck, most factory 20 calibers are a .232 neck diameter. You might want to call Cooper just to check for sure. After you get a neck diameter from them I would recommend using a 0-1" micrometer and checking the neck diameter of your loaded rounds. To ensure safety you need to make sure you have at least .002 clearance between the chamber dimensions and your loaded rounds.

Brad

Thanks Brad. Will try to bump the shoulders some more.

I had some similar problems. You need to make sure your brass is getting fed all the way into the body die. I set mine up to over-cam and it solved the problem.