Annealing question!
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Annealing question!
Just curious about what sonr of the members on here do? I'm just about to dip my toe into the world of annealing, and have read a fair bit about it and watched plenty of YouTube! I'm just wondering if people quench their brass in water after annealing, or just let them cool naturally in a baking tray? If seen both techniques done, and wondered what people thought was best? Cheers.
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the fox has to be lucky every time!
the fox has to be lucky every time!
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Re: Annealing question!
I'm not sure what your setup is but I generally let the brass air cool in a tray. In the past, I have used a drill and socket to spin the cases while the torch does its thing. One at a time is pretty slow. There's a new machine that can do up to 700 cases without the need to hand feed them into a slot. Check it out! Even shows you how to check to see if you are getting them to the right temperature.
http://www.giraudtool.com/giraud-cartri ... ealer.html
http://www.giraudtool.com/giraud-cartri ... ealer.html
Hold 'em & Squeeze 'em
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Re: Annealing question!
That looks really good Skip, but I've only got 350 cases all together, so think that would be a bit of overkill! Many thanks anyway!
I only have to be lucky once,
the fox has to be lucky every time!
the fox has to be lucky every time!
- jpx2rk
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Re: Annealing question!
I have used what I call a "spinner" to anneal cases with 2 torches, one on each side. I did the DIY version first and then upgraded to the actual set up from here: https://cartridgeanneal.com/ You tube will show you how to make one for $25 or so. The torch tips and such are probably the most expensive part, and the tanks in todays environment.
I used this method for a year or so while experimenting with the process and can see the benefits of annealing in terms of easier bullet seating and more consistent neck tension. No real improvement on the target, but I'm not a competition shooter, just pdogs and targets. I purchased the EP innovations annealer earlier this year, and like it. It is automated for the most part, once you get the "time" or length of time in the flame set, you just have to drop an case on the shelf every few seconds. With the spinner, both hands are busy and you have to pay attention to avoid burning finger tips, etc. You also have to count when using the spinner method, the EP version does the counting for you. I haven't used the spinner method since.
I do not quench the brass, just let them air cool on the area rug/floor in the cave while I fill up the next tray of brass.
I used this method for a year or so while experimenting with the process and can see the benefits of annealing in terms of easier bullet seating and more consistent neck tension. No real improvement on the target, but I'm not a competition shooter, just pdogs and targets. I purchased the EP innovations annealer earlier this year, and like it. It is automated for the most part, once you get the "time" or length of time in the flame set, you just have to drop an case on the shelf every few seconds. With the spinner, both hands are busy and you have to pay attention to avoid burning finger tips, etc. You also have to count when using the spinner method, the EP version does the counting for you. I haven't used the spinner method since.
I do not quench the brass, just let them air cool on the area rug/floor in the cave while I fill up the next tray of brass.
Master Piddler
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Re: Annealing question!
That spinner looks a really good and consistent process, for a tidy price! I might have to ask if they do international postage!
I only have to be lucky once,
the fox has to be lucky every time!
the fox has to be lucky every time!
- Captqc
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Re: Annealing question!
Reviving and old post but here’s my take. I do not water quench, just air cool.
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- Rick in Oregon
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Re: Annealing question!
Many methods here, all seem to work okay.
For over 35 years, I've used Todd Kindler's "Series II Annealing Tip" using a circular flame attachment on the propane torch. It covers 360* of the case neck and shoulder. Cases are stood up in a pie pan of water, about 1/2" deep to protect the case web. I give the case a 'ten count' under the flame, then tip the case over and quench in a pie pan of water.
Simple, and 'back in the day' it was about the only alternative. I've seen many annealing machines and techniques over the years come and go, but this old (and cheap) method still gets the job done without much fuss or expense.
And I'll add, that in the entire time I've been using this tried and true method, I've not lost a single case from splitting or any other case malady. And I handload for a lot of different rifle calibers. "If it ain't broke......"
For over 35 years, I've used Todd Kindler's "Series II Annealing Tip" using a circular flame attachment on the propane torch. It covers 360* of the case neck and shoulder. Cases are stood up in a pie pan of water, about 1/2" deep to protect the case web. I give the case a 'ten count' under the flame, then tip the case over and quench in a pie pan of water.
Simple, and 'back in the day' it was about the only alternative. I've seen many annealing machines and techniques over the years come and go, but this old (and cheap) method still gets the job done without much fuss or expense.
And I'll add, that in the entire time I've been using this tried and true method, I've not lost a single case from splitting or any other case malady. And I handload for a lot of different rifle calibers. "If it ain't broke......"
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Re: Annealing question!
Couldn't have said it better.Rick in Oregon wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 10:04 am Many methods here, all seem to work okay.
For over 35 years, I've used Todd Kindler's "Series II Annealing Tip" using a circular flame attachment on the propane torch. It covers 360* of the case neck and shoulder. Cases are stood up in a pie pan of water, about 1/2" deep to protect the case web. I give the case a 'ten count' under the flame, then tip the case over and quench in a pie pan of water.
Simple, and 'back in the day' it was about the only alternative. I've seen many annealing machines and techniques over the years come and go, but this old (and cheap) method still gets the job done without much fuss or expense.
And I'll add, that in the entire time I've been using this tried and true method, I've not lost a single case from splitting or any other case malady. And I handload for a lot of different rifle calibers. "If it ain't broke......"
Several years back you enlighten me with this, I got on the horn with Todd Kindler, got the device and have never looked back. It was darn good advice and certainly worth more than I paid for it
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Re: Annealing question!
Jim, Rick,
I am ready to get into annealing. Tried to contact Todd Kindler...number is disconnected.
Can you guys tell me what make and model the circular torch tip/ring is?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Dave
I am ready to get into annealing. Tried to contact Todd Kindler...number is disconnected.
Can you guys tell me what make and model the circular torch tip/ring is?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Dave
- Rick in Oregon
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Re: Annealing question!
Yes, Todd has closed down the Woodchuck Den; bummer.
His annealing tip was called the "Series II Annealing Tip". It appears to be 'garage-made', nothing fancy. Just steel tubing formed into a circle with flame holes all around the inner circumference with the proper fitting to attach to a hand-held propane torch. You may be able to make one yourself.
As Todd is still selling his books, there must be a way to contact him. I'd try over at Saubier.com forums, as he posts there on occasion and looks at the forum there from time to time. It's a nice simple tool that works very well.
Wish I could be of more assistance.
His annealing tip was called the "Series II Annealing Tip". It appears to be 'garage-made', nothing fancy. Just steel tubing formed into a circle with flame holes all around the inner circumference with the proper fitting to attach to a hand-held propane torch. You may be able to make one yourself.
As Todd is still selling his books, there must be a way to contact him. I'd try over at Saubier.com forums, as he posts there on occasion and looks at the forum there from time to time. It's a nice simple tool that works very well.
Wish I could be of more assistance.
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Re: Annealing question!
Rick,
That is a huge help! Thank you.
Can you send a picture of your torch tip that you bought from Todd.
That way I can see the diameter of the circle and size of the flame holes.
Sounds simple enough to make one if I cannot get one from Todd.
Thanks again for your efforts. Greatly appreciated.
That is a huge help! Thank you.
Can you send a picture of your torch tip that you bought from Todd.
That way I can see the diameter of the circle and size of the flame holes.
Sounds simple enough to make one if I cannot get one from Todd.
Thanks again for your efforts. Greatly appreciated.
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Re: Annealing question!
You can also go to Woodchuck Den's web site and see what his looks like also. Very easy to make, unless you want to buy one.
- Rick in Oregon
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Re: Annealing question!
Sure, I'll see what I can round up later today and post in the next day or so.17-204 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 01, 2022 10:29 am Rick,
That is a huge help! Thank you.
Can you send a picture of your torch tip that you bought from Todd.
That way I can see the diameter of the circle and size of the flame holes.
Sounds simple enough to make one if I cannot get one from Todd.
Thanks again for your efforts. Greatly appreciated.
With basic skills that most of us have, you should be able to sort this out and have a tool that works.
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Re: Annealing question!
Rick, Thanks again!
Bill, I looked at Todd's website and did not find a picture of the torch tip. Just the written description. Did I miss that?
Bill, I looked at Todd's website and did not find a picture of the torch tip. Just the written description. Did I miss that?
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Re: Annealing question!
I just use a candle and hold the case in my fingers turning the neck/shoulder in the flame until it gets to warm to hold. Then drop in water or a wet towel. It is not necessary to heat to glowing red and if you don't cool with water you are taking a big chance of the heat moving down into the head area and softening it. Very dangerous. Never had any problem with this method, it is recommended by writer John Barsness.