Boy did I screw up! Stuck case w/20 Vartarg

ken sage · Post by **ken sage** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:12 am

I have been reloading for over 20 years and never had a stuck case. Got a 20 Vartarg for X-mas and this is my first wildcat.
I cleaned the interior of the brand new Redding Fl sizer die per intructions, set up the die in the press to Fl size. I took a new Rem 221 case and applied imperial die wax to the outside neck and body. I resized the first case and it pulled out of the 223 shell holder and is now stuck.

What did I do wrong? Please help!!!!!

trevort · Post by **trevort** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:40 am

cant help you with the cause only that it happened to me with a 204.

Others i have asked have recommended using bushing neck dies to change neck diameter of cases.

Hawkeye Joe · Post by **Hawkeye Joe** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 4:14 am

I never loaded for the 20 Vartarg but any time I got a stuck case the problem was lack of lube.Did you lube the neck on the inside??. I had a stuck case once and my fix was to squirt Hornady One Shot case lube in the vent hole on the die and out it came.Lack of lube was my problem.I'm sure the experts will be awake soon to help even more

ken sage · Post by **ken sage** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 5:12 am

Trevort and Hawkeye, thanks for your responses. Hawkeye you asked if I lubed the inside of the case neck. The answer is no. I have been told that any lube inside the case can foul the primer and powder. Is that true? As far as the outside case and neck. I put imperial wax in both hands and rubbed the cases btw my hands, then took the first case and rubbed wax on the outside neck. This has always worked for my 204r, 221 FB, 22PPC,
22 hornet, etc......

I tried to unscrew the expander ball and can't do it. It's real tight....

WHISTLEPIG · Post by **WHISTLEPIG** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 5:41 am

Ken, You really need to lube the inside of a case neck if you are using an expander mandrel or an expander button, I have used both the dry graphite and the the Imperial wax and prefer the wax. The graphite is just too messy for me, but it does an excellent job of lubing.I use a Q-Tip that has a very light coat of wax and run it around the inside of the neck. Spin the Q-Tip in the direction the cotton is wound and it will stay tight and gives good control. A SMALL amount is all that is required.I don't think that the small amount of wax used is going to create a powder bridge and for sure is not going to foul a primer. If it's a concern, run the cases through the tumbler before priming. I run an expander button that just touches the inside of the case neck. I want the last thing made round to be the inside of the case neck. If you have a steel expander button it needs to be polished. Chuck it in a drill and polish it with Flitz or some 600 wet dry paper. A misaligned or rough expander button will do nothing but introduce run out, as will an under lubed case neck.

scootertrash · Post by **scootertrash** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:42 am

Ken,

Yes, the Vartarg for some reason seems a bit tricky. I also stuck my first case in 36 years doing the Vartarg. However, mine was in a Redding body die, so I could tap it out from the top.

If you can't get your die apart, you may have to drill and tap the case head.

Speaking of which, if you have a Stoney Point gage, and are planning to use one of their modified cases, good luck. Because of their large tapped hole, there is very little material left, and the "rim" will just pull off in the shellholder when you try to neck it down to .20, no matter how much it's lubed.

I work with toolmakers, so I took a piece of my Fireball brass, necked it down, then took it to work. I then chucked it in a lathe to drill and tap for the Stoney Point threads. This will require you to purchase a tap, I believe it's 5/16-36. You won't find it in a standard tap and die set, as it is a bast**d size. I ordered one thru MSC, or McMaster Carr.

I too, think the Imperial wax is the superior product for this application. You will also find it gets easier the second time around.

Mike

acloco · Post by **acloco** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:17 am

Some other items to consider...

New to you or new dies - polish the inside with a bore mop and some flitz, after degreasing (they all spray a rust inhibitor at least).

Clean die.

Spray inside of sizing die with Hornady One Shot, let dry.

I use either Imperial or Hornady tub type lube...have yet to stick a case since. Definitely lube the inside of the neck.

I also give the brass a final cleaning after all brass operations are done.

ken sage · Post by **ken sage** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:48 pm

Thanks all for your help. I definately learned my lesson. Also hope that this will help others from repeating my error.

I called Redding and spoke to one of thier techs. He said that when dealing with a virgin die that has been cleaned with bore cleaner that it is imperative to relube the interior of the die and over lube the first case.

Once I get this case out, I plan on polising the inside with flitz, relube, and then try again...

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!

Hawkeye Joe · Post by **Hawkeye Joe** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:54 pm

If you can't get it out, try putting it in the freezer to break it loose.When you take it out, try to warm die with with your hand while pulling on the case.